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CEO, Pelican Parts Inc.
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Project 34: Radiator & Hose Replacement
Got any questions on Project 34 for your E36 or E30? Ask them here!
-Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, CEO, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines Coming in 2010: 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your MINI Cooper (2010) • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 (2010) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1
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Fan Clutch
The book and pictures look really helpful. Wish I had known about it ealier! I just ordered one tonight - a little late seeing I already have the car half-way torn apart and the book won't get here until Dec 5th, 2006!
Anyways I had bought a new water pump, fan clutch and belts. As I was taking everything off I couldn't get teh fan clutch off the waterpump! I know I am turning it the right direction but it is totally not coming off. It could be rusted on there. Anyways if I need to replace the fan clutch it doesn't much matter. But how can I tell if the fan clutch is bad? Last edited by i4edge; 11-28-2006 at 09:04 PM.. |
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Moderator
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You are having trouble removing the reverse threaded fan nut? Is it too tight or is the fan slipping out of grip and turning before the nut loosens. Try some penetrating oil.
You can test the clutch with a rolled up piece of newspaper. It should bat the newspaper out of the way and not slow the fan at all.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l Gone: :'( 98 Camry V6 97 Camry I4 97 Mazda 626 I4 :'(93 Sentra SE-R 88 Toyota Truck I4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 549
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U either have 2 use a fan holding tool or use a 36mm wrench & smack it clock-wise with a hammer....I have got a rag & a long pry bar and pry aganst the pulley while smakn with hammer & wrench
LEAVE BELT ON while doing this |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 78
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I replaced my raidator a couple of months back. I did not remove the fan. I just unhooked the hoses, unbolted the shroud, unclipped the radiator and slid it straight up like a book. It took all of 45 min to R&R.
Easy as pie!
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1994 BMW 325IS- my ride 1987 Porsche 944"S" -SOLD 2003 Honda CIVIC-the wifes ride |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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How in the world did you disconnect the hose that runs to the rear side section of your engine? That is tight fit and I know my hand is too big to fit back there....
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Palos Verdes Estates, CA
Posts: 877
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To remove the fan, I went to autozone and rented a Ford 4.9L fan removal tool. One of the tools included in the box is the perfect size to slip over the pulley bolts, holding them in place. Take a large 32mm wrench or 1-1/4" Wrench along with a rubber mallet and give it a good smack clockwise. It should knock it loose. I tried pulling and tugging with a friend but it didn't budge. Required the use of the mallet to break it free, I think the shock and initial force will break it free.
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1997 M3 Sedan 5spd Artic Silver/Dove M3 Bumpers/Mirrors/Sideskirts S52 3.2L, M3 Wheels, M3 suspension, M3 Brakes Oh wait...it's a stock M3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 37
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Quote:
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'97 328iC |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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Thanks, HGS. I think I will attempt it this weekend.
One other question. Am I going to have to drain the engine block of coolant when I replace the radiator and hoses, or just my radiator? |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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Also, should I be concerned about the auto trans fluid that spills out when I disconnect the auto trans hoses from the radiator/cooler? I dont want to have to replace or add more tranny fluid after I do this..
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 549
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U dont have to drain the block just make sure you bleed it when re-filling & usually you dont have to remove the cooler lines just
unbolt from the radiator at the bottom |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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You mean just unbolt the entire cooler from the radiator? Someone said there are 2 bolts that hold the cooler on, one on the top and one on the bottom.
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 549
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Yeah but I think its 2 bolts on top & 2 on bottom~~>8mm
Make sure 2 transfer the nutplates 2 the new radiator |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 37
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You might not need to drain the engine block but it is not difficult and you end up with new coolant in your new radiator.
The amount of transmission fluid you lose is about a cup and there is no easy way to replace it. I did not replace it and have not noticed any difference.
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'97 328iC |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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What about that small rubber hose that goes into the top of the radiator? It does not have a clamp like the other hoses. How do I loosen and remove that hose?
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 549
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Cut the clamp off & use a new one
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 549
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also make sure u route it correctly when goin back cuz it can hit the fan
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 5
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rubber insulator for upper radiator mount
I have just taken the radiator out of the car in my 99 M3 convertible, and never saw a rectangular "rubber insulator for upper radiator mount". Pelican parts lists it as needed for my year E36, part number 17-20-1-719-414-M200. Where does this mystery part go?
Thanks |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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Re:
I'm not sure about an upper radiator mount either. The only one I know of is the rectangular rubber mounts that your radiator sits on at the bottom. Sure thats not what it means?
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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rE:
Actually, I think I know what the upper mount is....
These should be built into the radiator itself. Look at the top of the radiator where the plastic clip fits in. Those little rectangle slits should be rubber. |
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