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Strut Bar Bracket Mod Project - Complete
For those following my adventures in strut bar bracket fabrication, I've finally completed the project, & have pics to share.
In review, I purchased an inexpensive front strut bar off EBay for $25 delivered. In my haste to grab a great deal, I didn't realize that this bar was not applicable to cars with the ASC+T unit mounted on the throttle body. The bar itself was very nice with no perforation holes; however, the brackets mounted the bar right over the ASC unit, & there was not enough clearance. This is what the original brackets looked like: http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sel...tbbe36_au1.jpg When I realized my mistake, I started asking for suggestions on a previous thread. Geno325is: Tony, you will have clearance issues near the throttle body. While you had the hood up, you should’ve test fitted the strut bar anyway... Drews323i: Geno325i, I second that. I have traction control and this style of bar will not clear. that is without modification. cutting/welding of mounting plates. a lot of work. but the bar was only $15 so I’ll put some time in to modify. So not wanting to give up without a fight, I came up with this little idea, previously posted on that same thread: Supertack: The bar came in, & as was suspected it doesn't clear the throttle body. However, I had this idea. If I swap positions of the mounting brackets (left on right & right on left) then that will move the bar mounting tabs on the plate forward about 2" & give it the clearance space. I will have to drill new holes on the plate, since when they are swapped the bolts don't align with the factory drilled ones. The only problem is this, one of the three holes on each bracket will be between the mounting tabs. This causes the problem of getting a nut in between those tabs to fasten it over the bolt, which does not appear to have enough space. Drews323i: super, i tried that to. had the same problem. thats why i decided to cut the tabs and move them. maybe this weekend i will reweld them together. Now instead of heading Drews warning, I forged ahead & drilled the new holes in the plates. Then it was time to put them on, ......it was a curse-fest to say the least. This is what I posted on the mod: Supertack: Well, I'm outta luck. I drilled the new holes, & swapped the bracket sides, moving the mounting tabs toward the front. It worked great, the bar went in effortlessly & looked very cool. Then I tried to close the hood, & found out that when you move the bar those 4" forward, the hood won't close. This is why it is mounted that far back. I'm so pissed off. Then Blkongry posted this pic of the Dinan strut bar. I noticed that the tabs were mounted across the middle of the bracket, as opposed to the rear. I had this thought of having new brackets fabricated, & used this Dinan pic as my inspiration. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1068492607.gif I figured I'd make a template, & then hunt around for a machine shop that would do the work. This is what I posted when I got that peice figured out: I think I solved my ASC clearance issue. Unbeknownst to me, I had a friend of a friend who owns a machine shop. Using regular corrugated cardboard I made a three dimensional template of the brackets using the original brackets as a measurement reference. I used these Dinan brackets as the inspiration on the tabs, & the template looked shockingly similar to that pic. Here's what the templates I created looked like. They were the key to the whole project. http://us.a1.yahoofs.com/users/41b76...vt.TDBdbP0KpTO After I gave my machine shop buddy the templates, it took him a little while do get the initial cuts done. After he had the pieces ready, we dry fit them on my car & did some minor drilling adjustments. Here's what I posted on that step. I saw the semi-finished product of my custom machined brackets the other day. My bro had me stop by so we could dry fit them. The tabs arn't welded on yet, but I should have the finished product & put up pics pretty soon. It looks SO frickin cool. their thicker than the crap you get off EBay, & are black with exposed silver steel edges. They make even expensive strut brackets look like a bugger. I told my buddy he could probably make some loot selling these things to guys like me who bought a bar that doesn't fit over the ASC. I got my bar online for $25, & it cost me (2) cs of Corona for the brackets, so it still wound up way less than $100. I think if you put mine & the Dinan brace ($400) side by side, mine looks cooler. It turned out that good! And here is the finished product, after I dremmeld out some burs, taped off the edges, & put a coat of black paint on the surface. http://us.a1.yahoofs.com/users/41b76...ut.TDBZBA.K4_T Lastly, this is how it looks on the car. It has a great fit, & looks nicer than any of high priced alternatives in my opinion. http://us.a1.yahoofs.com/users/41b76...ut.TDBTJM4nFdD http://us.a1.yahoofs.com/users/41b76...ut.TDBl6bDb_a8 http://us.a1.yahoofs.com/users/41b76...ut.TDB7gIcndHU Thanks to everyone for the info & suggestions. |
Now THAT is a nice bar mount and a story that I just love to hear... I tip my hat to you Supe... very, very nice job. Those mounts look tough, and I am sure are much stronger than most anything out there. I really like the center design and the black with silver trim edges. Yeah, if you were to make some more and put them on Ebay, they would sell by the dozen.
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I guess fabricating them was a bit more of a hassle than the guy originally thought. When I first saw the rough product, the tabs weren't even welded on yet, so it was really just simple cuts & drill holes. But by the time he had welded them together, & made hole adjustments, he had put some substantial time into it. I thought, If he could make (1), he could make (10) just as easily. That was not the case however, & he wasn't exactly aroused by my suggestion of making more for internet sales. Oh well, I got mine, which is all I can ask for.
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Looking very good Super! Much stonger than the original. Is there anyway you could be persuaded to make a photocopy of your templates and mail them? Of course i would be willing to pay for them. After looking at yours there is no way i'm using that flimsy original metal.
1980 323i 1994 325i |
Well Drews, I can probably do better than that. If you want the original templates, I don't really have a use for them any longer. Shoot me a pm & we can talk logisics on postage, ect.
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I would consider painting the edges of the metal. To keep the looks that you like, you could clear-coat it pretty easily, or use sliver paint. (But the latter would look like, well, silver paint...) Having bare unprotected metal just seems to be tempting fate to me.
Then again, maybe I'm a little paranoid on the whole "R-word" issue, seeing that I am a 914 owner... On a quiet day, you can practically hear those cars oxidizing. ;) --DD |
Ehh, I dunno if there is enough exposed metal and/or enoungh room for moister to get to them. Thanks for the tip though, If I notice any oxidation & can remove them, sand it off, & do your clear coating idea.
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Did you have them fabbed out of stainless steel? Or plain carbon steel? Plain carbon will rust at the drop of a hat. If they are stainless... they leaving them exposed shouldn't be a problem.
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Quote:
As Dave eluded, the edges of the brackets did indeed rust. This wasn't a bad fix though. I pulled off the brackets & dremmeled the rust out of the edges. I then taped off the exposed edges I wanted to remain silver, & repainted the bracket surface with high heat black gloss spray paint. Once dry, I removed the tape & covered the entire bracket with a poly clear coat. Looks just a good as before, only now it's gonna have protection from the elements. Go ahead Dave, say "I told you so" |
wow, 2003 thread- back from the dead
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