Need some help - several questions
 

I have a 325e 1985 with 200,000 miles
The car was running great until two months ago.

The car stopped as I was rounding a turn in second gear and would not start. It sounded weird and I suspected the timing belt broke. What I found was it skipped 2 teeth. I fixed the timing but it still would not start. After removing the valve cover I found the crack of doom. Antifreeze everywhere. One head bolt popped and I guess it became involved in the cam. This crushed bolt head and washer, bent the cam shaft and cracked the head.

I removed the head to inspect the damage. I found two small piston dings from the piston to valve collision. Several of the valves were bent. The lower engine seemed ok. I decided to replace the head. I found a low mileage (118,000) 528e with rear end smash. Seemed like an acceptable risk, so after paying the salvage yard $200.00 I left with the head. Next I had an auto machine shop test it. They said it was in good shape. Also, it had no warpage. I cleaned the head using a razor to get the old material off. This worked better then the solvent. I need some help. There are some things I am not sure about.

I am good at repairing things electrical, mechanical, cars etc. I have never changed a head. I am following the Bentley manual.

The following are concerns of mine.

Do you agree with my general repair plan? My goal was to try the least expensive path.
The 528e is supposed to use the same engine as the 325e. Does anyone know this for sure? Both heads look the same and are stamped 2.7ETA
The new head gasket I purchased is the +3 mm version. Since the head did not need to be cut can I use it or should I return it for the normal one. Will the car have less power if I install the +.3mm gasket because of the lower compression?
The rotor support (bracket with the 3 holes in the middle of the cam shaft sprocket) is now in a different orientation. I know this will be a problem. Can I interchange the 528 rotor bracket with the one from the 325 head or is there something seriously different like the cam shaft? The timing marks and valve positions seem the same.
The Bentley manual says the valve clearance should be .010in. The 528e head seems to be around .012 of .013. Should I change them or just try to get the thing to started before any fine tuning.
Any other helpful hints?
Any help will be most appreciated.

Thanks

Brian

HMM, Head jobs can be fun
 

OK, head jobs can be fun
ETA heads are interchangable up to the s model.

The +003 head gasket will work fine. It may even save you next time the belt goes away.

You did good with cleaning the head, just make sure not to cut into the metal.

The Bentley covers the installation so I will not cover it here, just ask you to get new bolts for the head. I would also get new copper nuts for the exhaust manifold.

I always use a .012 dead cold for setting the valves, make sure to use two wood strips to keep the valves from getting bent while adjusting.

Later, have fun.

C - Thank you for your feedback.

Like a surgeon, slowly this morning I adjusted the valves. It was easy, especially since the head was on my work bench. Had lots of sun coming in so I could see the lobe positions very well. I went through it twice and set them for .010 to .011. Most of them were .014 to start with. I guess this is normal since the head had 120K on it. I will let it sit and check one last time tomorrow.

Concerning the +.3 head gasket I got by mistake, are you sure it won’t hurt the performance? I do like the idea that is provides some extra safety for valve clearance. I was thinking the added displacement volume would balance the decrease in compression. Seems like the internal carbon build up would add the compression back. When I look at a .3mm feeler gauge, I can’t help thinking the increase is insignificant.

Any thoughts on the different bracket for the Rotor? I am planning to pull the one off the old head to get some idea about what’s involved.

Does anyone recommend the use of the head gasket sealant goop stuff?

Thanks

Brian

No sealer.
 

I would say no goop stuff. On all of the ones I have done, just torqing it right and making sure it was flat and clean was fine. As well, the 3 over head gasket isn't a problem AFAIK.