Speedometer Issue: UPDATE
 

Well it's been 3 weeks since my last post concerning the removal of the interior pieces to access my gauges.

Well, I went ahead and removed everything (sans sterring wheel) cleaned out the connections with lubricant and a pencil eraser (as the archives suggested), and put everything back together.
Went for a test drive, and the speedo worked faultlessly. WooHoo!!
Next morning, off to work, hop in the car. The problem returns!!! Now I'm thinking I should have taken the advice to check the rear end connection first!
So this past weekedn, I got under the car and removed the two connections. cleaned everything out, plugged 'em back in. Went for a lengthy test drive. Problem solved!!!!
Drive to work the next day (23 miles). No worries!!!!
Go to do an errand at lunch-guess what- it's ba-aack!!!

This is really frustrating. I sense that its rear end related as the needle bounces (when at and indicated 0 mph) over bumpy terrain.
Am I missing something??

Thanks again!!SmileWavy
Paul

Paul:

Didn' catch your earlier post but ... sounds like you are getting all the trouble / probable spots. Make sure to put some dialectic grease (buy at autozone , napa, etc....) on the electrical connections ... especially those exposed to weather like under your E30.

This included the C191 FI harness connector under the intake manifold that always causes problems ... eventually ... especially if you "wash" your engine / engine bay.

Jason

Thank you!
 

Thanks, Jason. I suspect the cause for the faulty speedo is at the rear end, as it seems to happen when I go over bumps, railroad tracks etc. I'l be sure to use the dieletic grease as well, especially since I've been planning to detail the engine bay soon. Just exactly where is the FI harness you speak of?

Just my two cents, I had the same problem with water collecting in the harness, dielectric grease solves the problem

It is underneath the intake manifold on the driver's side (LH Drive) of the car. Easy to trace from the FI - all six wires come to a taped bundle and pass through the I manifold from the passenger side. It is a screw type (align prongs and then push togerther, then screw collar together). connector if I remember correctly.

Jason

Yup, passes through a bracket securing it to the manifold, and unscrews on both sides.

Thanks guys! Looks like I need to make a trip to the parts store this weekend and give it a shot.
SmileWavy
Paul

update part deaux
 

well, got under the car to check the two connections; remarkably, the connections were moisture and corrosion free. I even went so far as to disconnect the two wires, unbolt the bracket securing the white module that plugs into the differential, and clean everything up.

After reassembly, I applied a thin layer of di-electric grease.
Took as drive...SAME PROBLEM!

I am wondering now if that 'module' that plugs into the rear of the differential may be faulty; although my fluctuations seem to be random, when the needle isn't working, it will bounce when I drive over bumps.

Jared-do you guys sell that piece I'm talking about? I think that if that doesn't solve it, I'm going to have to be forced to take her to the shop-I don't want the registered mileage to be too off.


SmileWavy


Paul

Hi. First post here..

Sarc, did you re-flow the solder joints on the back of the speedo?

Hi Simon, welcome to the board! Dig the avatar.

What exactly do you mean by re-flowing the solder joints at the back of the speedo??

When I got back there I disconnected the harness, cleaned and dusted the connections with an eraser (a suggestion from the archives) and plugged her back in.

Did I miss something?

SmileWavy
Paul

Hi Paul, Thanks for the welcome.

Last fall, I bought a ’91 318is, (137K mi.) drove it for a few weeks, took notes on what was wrong, then put it in storage. Did net research over the winter and blew a bunch of $ on eBay for parts. Had it painted in the spring and now it’s on stands in the garage while I refurbish it to the best of my ability. (intake, chip, exhaust, wheels, lower springs, shocks, strut cartridges, LSD, stereo, short throw shift kit, various bushings, etc.) It’ll be fun to have so much done at one time to what was a totally stock vehicle. One goal is to address as many common faults as I can that are known to the e30 and fix or prevent them. Various Pelican tech articles have been very insightful. (thanks Jared!)

The car suffered from the intermittent speedometer problem.
Here’s the article I followed:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/speedo/speedo.htm

I’ve done soldering for things like stereo installation in the past but was intimidated by the small size of the joints on the speedo unit. Had one of my electrician tech friends do the re-flowing. I watched him do it and it was simple. The key was having a low watt (10-15) soldering iron and thin solder wire. I totally coulda done it. Will be purchasing a low watt soldering iron when/if my SI batteries need replacing..

Just put the speedo unit back in the dash yesterday. Regretfully, the interior of the car is completely dismantled for seat repair, stereo install, and thorough detailing. It’ll be a few weeks before I see if the re-flowing did the trick. Suppose I could hook the battery back up and run the car on the stands to see if it works but don’t think I’ll bother due to the intermittent nature. It is comforting to have it done. Intending to put a new sender on the LSD when it gets installed for good measure.

Cheers,
-Simon

Simon:

Sounds like you are jumping in with both feet ! Post some pics of your project so we can follow along.

Jason

Here are recent shop pics:
http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeBM3DZi1bNGMx

Body/paint: Opted for an eyebrow and kidney bean grill treatment. Also felt that side skirts would be a good cosmetic investment. (pretty sure they came from Bavarian Autosport.. last ones in stock at the time) Very happy with the mirrors found on eBay. In nut shell, had body shop go for ‘dipped in red’ effect.

Seats: Passenger side refused to engage up/down function. Soaked offending mechanism in WD40 and white grease.. still couldn’t get the f*%kin thing to function properly.. mechanism added to bone yard shopping list.
Driver side broken frame causing lower bolster to separate from rest of seat. Much dismantling found culprit weld break. Planning trip to local body shop for MIG/TIG fix.
Article site used for seat repair procedure:
http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318isseat.html

Thank you, Simon for the link and the thoughts.
Looks like your going to have a sharp E30 when your done. Keep up the good work!

SmileWavy
Paul

heh heh, You guys dont want to see my instrument cluster board...

When i took it apart, it seems there was a hgue crack running down the center of it...

I've got about 30 small wires running outside of the cluster jumping the crack..

whay buy new when you can solder?

Ok guys, I'm in bit of a quandry. I'm almost certain the issue I'm dealing with with here is the issue mentioned in Simon's link. Now my problem; my 91 has an airbag.
When I did the first attempt, it was a chore to remove all the required pieces to access the cluster with the wheel in place. Once in I could only move the cluster slightly as the wheel was blocking the way for the cluster.
To do the diagnosis mentioned in the link, I must take the wheel off and, according to the archives, this is a task best left to the dealer :(

So.....do I take the car to them, give them the tech article and write the check? I don't see a dealer taking the time to do the soldering, preferring to just install a new cluster ($$$$$$ I assume).

Any thoughts would help....I don't want this odometer discrepency to continue growing. With that said, are the illumination of the inspection lights a mileage based function? I've been keeping up with the oil changing by guestimating when it's time, but I don't want to miss out on other required maintenance under the Inspection I and II requirements.

Thanks!
Paul

Taking the bag wheel off is a piece of cake. If I can do it, you can do it. Disconnect the battery for an hour I believe, (I left mine off for a day to be safe.) This disables and removes any power within the air bag mechanism. Then remove the small door on the bottom side of the steering column. This further disconnects the air bag.

Then there’s some torx screws on the back of the wheel.. it’s easy.. really.

http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/AirBagRemovalE30.html

Simon! The man with the links comes through again!
As this is my daily driver, I'll have to give it a shot the weekend after this upcoming one.

Thanks again!
Paul

Paul:

When you are pulling the airbag ... keep your distance if you can (work from the side) and place it face up when removed. I have pulled mine after I let the car sit for several hours with neg battery cable disconnected.

FWIW

Jason

Good idea, Jason!
I might attempt the fix this weekend (time permitting).
Paul