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Front main seal (crankshaft seal)

How difficult is it to get to and replace the crankshaft main front seal during a timing belt change? Would it require any special tools?
Thanks.
Old 02-07-2006, 05:11 AM
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BMW Roundel Front Main Seal

In theory, it's pretty simple really. Remove all components as you would removing the timing belt, remove the crankshaft sprocket, pull out the seal, and install new oiled seal. Put back together, then have beer.

However, the crankshaft sprocket is torqued to 410 Nm (302ft./lbs). Bentley references a special tool # 11 2 150 to hold the sprocket though i'm sure you could be creative, and you must use a 3/4" drive and huge breaker bar/cheater bar to break the bolt free. The difficult part, or expensive part if you don't have a torque wrench rated at 400 ft/lbs. just laying around the garage, is holding the sprocket still and not turning the engine, while torquing the bolt back up to 302 ft/lbs. you would most definately have to use a micrometer style, cause you will never see a gauge, not to mention the other helpers you need to hold the socket in place while you and a helper torques it up. it's a man's wrench!!

unluckily for me i know all too well the business of huge torque specs, working on heavy diesels...make sure if you do decide to go through with it, to use the "black" impact style socket and extension if you need it...a regular "chrome" extension and socket will likely shatter. also while you're in there go ahead and change the intermediate seal, a lot less work on that one. but "while you're there"....

good luck. let us know how it goes!
Old 02-16-2006, 08:29 PM
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Vida,
I have not finished my project yet, but I was able to get this bolt out. This was really not as bad as it sounds. Once you have the right tool to lock down the crankshaft, this heavily-torqued bolt came out easily enough, even with a 1/2" braker bar instead of the 3/4". Now I just have to change all three seals, clean up, and zip everything back up.
Old 03-17-2006, 05:11 AM
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I know i should know better but bad habbits snuck in during my 7 years with Ford...
I tightened my crank bolt with my impact wrench. Snap-On say it is good for 300ft/lbs in setting 3 so that's what she got!
done about 50,000km scince the seal change and when I was last in doing my timing belt none of my painted marks on the balancer and bolt had shifted so all is good!
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Old 03-25-2006, 02:00 AM
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It's a mother****er to get the main crank bolt loose. I had to put the car in gear, e-brake on, rear tires completley deflated, then with a 4 foot breaker bar, I was able to pop it loose



IIRC, you also need to remove the gear for the oil pump, the oil pan bolts on the front, and the front timing cover.
Old 03-29-2006, 08:42 AM
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Well,
As I mentioned, with a $50 tool to lock down the crankshaft, this went over with no major hitches. Had some issues with installing the crankshaft cover with the seals not cooperating to fit nicely around their respective shafts, but took care of that too with a number of tries and a select choice of expletives.
Old 03-29-2006, 12:17 PM
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I snapped the tool you speak of..

hence, a mother****er
Old 03-29-2006, 01:16 PM
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Garage
Quote:
As I mentioned, with a $50 tool to lock down the crankshaft,
Can you guys post a pic?

Are you simply talking about a toothed crankshaft tool to lock say a flywheel? [like the VW / Porsche ones]

TIA

Jase
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:51 AM
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Jase,
Here is the picture of the tool I used. It bolts on to the front of the crankshaft with its six bolts.

Old 04-11-2006, 01:35 PM
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Otherwise you can lock it at the flywheel. The Haynes manual shows the exact dimensions of the tool. It is simply an 8mm round steel bar ground down to 5mm at the end.
You slide it into a hole machined into the block on the down the bottom right corner (as you look at the car from the front)
then turn the crank slowly till the dowel slots into the 5mm hole in the flywheel. this holds the crank at TDC!
I made mine by buying a 5mm and 8mm length of tool steel and then drilling a 4.8mm hole on the larger piece, heating the 8mm piece with a blow torch i then hammered in the 5mm piece and then cooled it in oil.
I cannot break this tool!!
Highly reccomend making your own if you have the eqipment.
Also made the cam holder but changed it a little so i could bolt it down to the top of the head into the tappet cover bolt holes.
Luke.
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Old 04-12-2006, 03:23 PM
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Old 04-12-2006, 03:23 PM
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