Ignition Problem - Any Adivice Appreciated

[B Goode]

Hi, this is my first post although I have been surfing the Pelican Boards for about a year.

I have a '95 325i 4 door Automatic with 198K miles that I have owned since 120K.

A recent compression test came back with decent numbers, so I have decided to tackle a few big maintenance items to try to extend the cars life few a few thousand more. Recent fixes include: new O2 sensor, NGK plugs, new plug connectors, new fuel filter, new thermostat, cleaned intake manifold and injectors (new pintle caps, seals, screen filters), new intake seals, new intake boot, found and fixed one vacuum leak, oil change with filter, and new air filter.

The car has run fine since the afore mentioned work, although it still seems a bit sluggish compaired to how it used to run.

This past weekend I decided to change the auto transmission oil and filter, as well as the seal at the shift linkage shaft. I used the Meistersatz filter kit as well as Swepco 714 oil as suggested by a Pelican salesman. I had an excrutiating time figuring out how to get the shift linkage seal out before realizing that the shaft can be pushed into the housing rather than pulled out. With all of my fiddling around with the linkage I heard a big pop come out of the geartrain. I figured that it was probably one of the clutches releasing and continued since there was nothing that I could do about it anyway. Eventually I got the new seal in, carefully cleaned everything twice, replaced the filter, and reattaced the sumps as outlined in the Pelican tech article.

After filling the sump cold, I ran the car until the trans oil came up to temp, as perscibed. Once warm, I shifted through all of the gears ten times and turned the engine off. I prepared to top off the trans oil and tried to restart the car - and nothing happened.

Here are the facts:

The started won't turn over and no solenoid snap either

When the key is turned to the on position, all of the idiot lights come on for a short time and then the usual ones go out. Also, the three LEDs on the climate control (AC, recirc, and defrost) come on with the key and won't go out.

The multi-function display doesn't come on, not even the clock

OBD pedal test - appears to be a 1000 code, blinks once then out for five then on for five, then repeats indefinately

Main relay OK with 12V at output, ignition swicth OK (tested at column), fuses all look good

Visually inspected electrical panels under hood, under driver footwell, and behind glovebox - nothing looks bad

Pulled DME. With the DME out and key on, same response as with it in - makes me think that it is the DME

Examined DME and Trans control boards, nothing looks bad - definately no water damage (the DME hole was powder dry)

I'm not sure that I can't rule out the EWS II immobilization stuff either and I don't really know anything about that system.

The wierdest thing is that with the key on the aux radiator fan comes on the low setting. I have never known it to come on except with the AC on.


Any Advice here will be appreciated. I would like to rule out whatever I can before I start spending hundreds on DME or EWS equipment.

Please help me get this thing back on the road so that I can get back to working on my '73 911.

Thanks,
Kyle

[B Goode]

Wonderful Typo in my Title - I'm still trying to learn how to use spell check.

[patallen]

Maybe the neutral safety switch got out of adjustment when you changed the seal?
Id try to start the car while moving the shift selector.
I am aware of the almighty plug onto the transmission that get corroded inside, blocking the electrical signals, since you played around there, id look at it.

just a thought. I don't even know where is the neutral safety switch on these models.

Pat Allen

[B Goode]

Thanks for the suggestion, Pat. I actually did finally find the problem, and I am imbarrased to admit it. But, for posteritie's sake..... it was a 5 amp fuse - I think number 31.

I had looked over those fuses a least a half dozen times, but I checked again, and low and behold one of them had an almost impreceptable break in it. Hopefully someone else will find this thread before they go through all of the mess that I did.

I did actually check my Neutral Safety Switch too. It is just under the shifter plate in the cabin, and it is incredibly hard to get out because the key lockout cable blocks access to one of the switch attachmendt bolts.

The good thing is that the car is running again, and I learned a lot in the experience. Next time I think that I'll break out the multi-tester and check every fuse before I start to dissasemble the car.