New lock cylinder - not locking

[metalvolks]

Another question:

I rebuilt my driver's door lock cylinder - everything is brand new. When I turn the key to the 30 degree mark it does what it should. But, when I go to the 90 degree mark, the end of the lock cylinder that contacts the locking mechanism in the door doesn't go anywhere-in fact the spring kinda "snaps" back when you go to 90 degrees (the key is at the 30 degree mark after this happens - doesn't stay at the double lock position). Do I have a spring on backwards? When you go to unlock it does the same this only backwards.

Another question: how does this "double lock" What part actually makes it "double lock?"

Any suggestions?

Paul

[Bear]

Did you buy a lock rebuild kit from the dealer and she does not work, I did the rebuild and everything works fine. Sounds like a spring or tubler does not have enough tension to move that fork like device on the locking mechanism.

[metalvolks]

I did buy it from a dealer. It does have enough "power" to push down the forks on the door lock mechanism only if you turn the key about 30 degrees. When you go to the double lock, the end fork on the tumbler snaps back to the neutral state, thus hitting the top fork of the door lock mechanism to "unlocked." It works fine if I don't go to the double lock. Like I said, it seems that the spring is on backwards, but i checked it and it is deosn't appear to be... (based on pictures of rebuilds).

It just seems like it doesn't like the double lock

Paul

[Bear]

There is something wrong woih the spring pressure on the rebuilt cylinder. I just di onme on a 1990 325ic and she goes to normal lock at about 30 degrees of key turn, and double lock all the way over. I would take it apart one more time and put it back together just to be sure everything is correct. In reality I had a local lock smith do mine ($15) just to be sure.