E-Brake shoe replacement

Highlander179 · 07-12-2006, 08:33 AM

easy?

whats involved?

BMR BOY · 07-12-2006, 11:20 AM

Pretty easy actually. take off rear wheels, and calipers, and carriers. and remove the allen-head retaining screw for the rotor. this screw is probably rusted beyond belief and will need copious amounts of break free to loosen. strip that little bolt and you are up a creek! at this point, make sure for the lords sake that the ebrake is in fact NOT SET, or you will pointlessly beat and anger yourself to death trying to get you rotor off. whack your rotor with a rubber mallet until it's loose. tah-dah! you now have access. oh, and by the way, make sure you actually need to replace your pads before you start this job. if you lift the boot on your ebrake handle, and see the two (8mm? 10mm?) nuts on the end of the handle by your console, try to tighten those down and adjust it first. an ebrake pad really shouldnt get worn down unless someone is kind of ignorant, and forgets to put it down.

Highlander179 · 07-12-2006, 11:26 AM

car has 170k on it...
already has new disc pads....
screws on the handle are all the way in...
when I brake, it screetches BAD!!!

BMR BOY · 07-12-2006, 12:27 PM

Whoa nelly! when you BRAKE it makes a squealing sound, or when you apply the handbrake? Screws on the ebrake handle all the way in means it's time. Make sure you loosen those wayyyy up before you begin, otherwise you're going to be fighting a cable.
man vs. cable...cable wins
you may want to check pads and rotors as well, just to be safe. heck, while you're at it, you can throw pads on pretty easy since your calipers will be off.

Highlander179 · 07-12-2006, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BMR BOY
when you BRAKE it makes a squealing sound, or when you apply the handbrake?

I changed the rear disc pads six months ago and it didn't start to squeal until a week ago when I adjusted the e-brake(now the nuts are all the way in). Its squealing from the right rear. I assumed that since my adjustment brought the shoes all the way in, thats where the squeal is ccoming from, no?

I looked at and re-cleaned the disc pads and rotor and they are fine. The e-brake shoes are practically gone so they need to be changed and should take care of the squeal.

Quote:

Originally posted by BMR BOY
Screws on the ebrake handle all the way in means it's time.

I know, thats why I posted

Quote:

Originally posted by BMR BOY
Make sure you loosen those wayyyy up before you begin, otherwise you're going to be fighting a cable.
man vs. cable...cable wins

good tip

BMR BOY · 07-12-2006, 03:55 PM

george, you've probably worn your ebrake shoes all the way through to the metal which means the inside of your rear rotor, which acts as a drum for your ebrake probably would benefit from a replacement. you dont have to replace them, but it is probably scuffed up in there which will lead to accelerated ebrake pad wear. Now that you know this will be a fresh set of pads, always remember to put the ebrake handle down BEFORE you begin to drive, and you'll never have to deal with this again! My ebrake is so dang tight, if i try to drive with it on, my whole car sinks a few inches and nearly stalls! Good luck, have fun, and take pictures!
bmr boy

Highlander179 · 07-18-2006, 05:21 AM

Do you know which brakes are used when ASC kicks in? Pads or drum to stop wheel spin?

Anyway, this is how it went:
1) lift car
2) remove left rear wheel. after air wrenching the lugs off it took a sledge hammer to get the wheel off. lesson learned; never have someone rotate your tires for you. that wheel wa not letting go.
3) remove caliper; this was the easiest part. two floating bolts slipped right out and the other two bolts for caliper holder came off with a little application heat.
4) rotor screw; easy
5) no parking brake applied, not in gear, rotate rotor to find clicker and back out shoes
6) remove rotor; or at least try to. this is where we got stuck, we applied heat, we applied penetrant, we rigged up a rotor removing type device(clamp) and it was actually bending the rotor like a frisbee but it would not come off.

So my question is... WTF???
What did I miss?

Keith M · 07-18-2006, 06:44 AM

The rotor is fused (rusted) to the hub. A few wacks with a hammer should solve this.
After the rotor is off, take a good look at the e-brake set up. I made a drawing so I would remember how it goes back together. The hardest part is hooking the springs back up.

Hope this helps

Keith