325 key items to check - WTB

[hcoles]

The budget for a car for my son is looking like a E36 325 is about right. What are the key items to have checked in a PPI? Are there definite years to stay away from or go for? Are there differences in the engine for various years that will be significant for reliability? Should I post this question at another point on the site? Suggested PPI in the South Bay San Francisco area? E.g. A&E or ? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
-Henry
89 911 - DIY rebuild per the "Wayne" book
71 2002 - sold , original owner

[stupenal]

I owned a 92 325i 5spd, and currently a 97 M3.

If he is looking for a 325, they were made between 1992-1995.

The 1992 version does not come with VANOS, meaning it does not have the low end torque that the 93+ models have, but instead makes a bit more power at the higher RPMs. I think the 92s also have hotter cams and more durable valves?

Within the 1992 model, if the car was produced from 6/92 and later, it will have the same suspension design as all other e36s made thereafter. Before that date, the front suspension on the 325 had the sway bar attached to the strut ( a la m3 style) along with different strut hats? I'm not too sure. Basically that only comes into play if you decide to later upgrade to an aftermarket suspension.

In terms of reliability, not having the VANOS is nice because the vanos unit tends to fail after 100K+ miles. It's not a guaranteed failure, but it is fairly common. However, having the low end torque is nice for daily driving.

Common parts that need replacing:
1. Rear trailing arm bushings. Gives a floaty rear end feeling around curves, can lead to increased rear tire wear
2. Front lower control arm bushing
3. Front lower control arms (on the M3s the ball joints are not replacable and requires replacement of the entire arm)
4. Tie rods
5. leaking power steering (usually it is just the clamps that need replacement)
6. COOLING SYSTEM. Includes waterpump, thermostat, thermostat housing, and radiator. Radiator necks are prone to cracking, thermostats get stuck, tstat housing may develop cracks and/or holes, and waterpump, if not replaced, WILL GRENADE ON YOU. Unless you have records indicating they were replaced recently, I would change out all of those parts. They require replacement about every 75k miles.
7. Rear subframe - early e36s are known to have tears the actual body where the subframe mounts to the car. I had it happen on my old 325i. Check for cracks in that area.
8. Rear shock mounts and towers - the rear shock mounts may make clunking noises in the rear of the car, when mine were bad they made wiggling noises. Some have seen their entire rear shock tower come apart and needed welding in a new piece.
9. Guibo/flex disc - the part that connects the tranny to the driveshaft. look for cracks in the rubber. Mine had completely frayed and was unrecognizable.
10. Struts/shocks - most likely the struts and shocks are blown. No biggie because most people upgrade them anyways.

Those are the main things I've had to replace and that are maintenance items on the e36. I know it sounds like a lot, but replacing these parts aren't that hard (except when your subframe tears) and can be done by anybody willing to turn a wrench.

I decided to write all of that, even though I knew about this checklist. I'm sure this checklist overlaps nearly all of these issues:

http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=55

[hcoles]

Stupenal,
Thanks very much for the reply...this is approx. what others are saying re. common issues.. and should be easy to replace/fix given a few bucks and wrench turning time.
I can keep people posted as I go. I found two places that I'll take it to for PPI.
-Henry