Central locking!

wgnorton · wgnorton's Garage

Hi there,

I am having door locking trouble with my left hand drive/US E30 (1993 BMW 325iC). A couple of problems...

Initially, the driver side door lock was bending keys - so I sprayed some lubricant inside. Perhaps I should order an original BMW key as it is stronger?
Then the central locking stopped working (leaving the passenger door and fuel door permanently locked). If I remember correctly, I was previously able to unlock the car (even the double locking from the boot)... not anymore!
Now, the actual driver side door lock won't lock easily (with the key), i.e. it won't turn 90 degrees clockwise to double lock the drivers door. I actually have to turn the key somewhat clockwise, then open the door, then close it and it is finally locked. The car has never been able to 'single' lock from the driver door... it was always a double lock procedure.

Any suggestions on what parts I need to replace/order? I've read a couple of posts on different sites/forums and am thinking a new 'Central Lock Control Unit' and also a 'Door Lock Repair Kit'.
I've inspected the pins in the CLCU and they appear fine but that is not to say the CLCU is not shot!

Can't wait to fix this so I can either get an electronically operated door locking system installed... The car was actually originally fitted with a UNGO Pro-Tech 5000 alarm but I am without key fobs. Would you suggest trying to pick up a key fob and programming it or just replace the system?

Thanks for your help!

Manolito · 03-20-2012, 05:59 AM

Either the year or the model is wrong, because a 1993 is an E36.

Either way, you have the older style door locks that are a bit tougher to repair. Having an alarm tied in to the system is a wild card. There is no telling what the effects might be if/when that alarm starts messing up.

As I recall, there is a good discussion of correcting the common problems with that style door lock in the 101 Projects book. It may be posted on this web site as well as being in the book.

Yurick · 07:33 AM

Manolito,
1993 was the last year E30 was produced as a convertible. Apart from being a convertible, it is otherwise still an E30 model.

Manolito · 03-20-2012, 11:11 AM

Oh! I learn something new every day. Thanks.

Since the models seem to improve every year as the manufacturer discovers the common problems and correct them (at least the things that might fail under warranty), that makes a 93 E30 convertible a highly desirable car. I have never seen or heard of one that late.

Yurick · 03-20-2012, 11:54 AM

The best I can tell, the most obvious difference a '93 E30 convertible and mine, which '90, is the style of the tail lights.

Frajo · 09:46 PM

My experience is it is usually one of the actuators that goes bad. I would start in the trunk. I once had a trunk actuator go haywire because water had collected in there with some heavy rain and sat for a while. After i vaccumed it out dried up and i sprayed some electro cleaner on the actuator it was working again. You can get to the fuel door lock from inside the trunk it's just behind the fuel door. I assume you sprayed the dr side lock from inside the door panel. If not the remove the panel and chk it out. You can spray some white lithium grease on the locks and the window gears while you're in there. Maybe jiggle the wire harness around the door actuator as well see if that helps. Good luck.

wgnorton · wgnorton's Garage

Thanks folks. It is definitely a 1993 model E30, one obvious difference with older E30 cabs is that this one has an electric roof (and a separate hard roof)... and 93,000 genuine miles to boot... so I love it! I will post photos when the summer comes and I have had the opportunity to detail the car.

Regarding the problem(s)...
I think I may have a combination of problems... the driver side lock is not easily turning, it will turn 90 degrees to double (dead) lock but it won't actually lock... I have to open the door after turning the key (it opens a half inch) and then shut closed so it will actually lock. Perhaps this in itself is a problem? Does it sound like it needs the door lock repair kit, and actuator or a new door lock mechanism!
Since I have the car (6 months) I never got the car to just lock normal (i.e. not double dead lock)... I always had to turn the key 90 degrees to DDL.

In addition, I cannot release the double dead lock (as the passenger side is currently double dead locked shut, as was the fuel door until I released it with the override) from either the driver door lock or the trunk lock! So perhaps that is the Central Locking Control Unit? I checked the pins and they are fine so perhaps I need to replace the CLCU also!?!

Thanks for all the help & suggestions please keep them coming!

Cheers, Wayne.