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Munky King Munky King is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Well after many many more hours than I expected, the front end is kind of getting together.
Still a little way to go, but most of that will be screwing the thing in place and cleaning up.


But as with any minor victories, there was a small casualty...


The hood jumped off my head as I was balancing it while trying to reset it. It dropped into the hole and nearly hit the floor where the gas tank was missing from.

So what have I learned, other than bodywork with GRP is a pretty vertical learning curve...

What I should have done:

When backdating with a long hood with short hood inner, first place the hood. Get it as central as possible. CAREFULLY CLOSE the hood. Watch for contact at the scuttle by the windshield or along painted surfaces as you close it.

If the hood seems a little narrow, push it down the chassis rails as far as possible, making the gap by the windshield scuttle as large as you dare or as large as the hinges will let you.

If you are going it alone with the hood placement (not recommended) place a thick cloth on the scuttle that is taped into place (so it won’t slip) covering the two pointy bits where each upper corner of the hood would otherwise meet them. This not only gives you a good first chance of getting a reasonable gap, but also protects your bodywork.

Shim up the hood with washers if needed to get the hood flush with the scuttle panel. This can be done with a single washer in the back, between the hood and the hinge, or with washers in both.

Make sure you have a hood seal in place, (I used tape to hold mine temporarily in place) as this makes a big difference to the height of the hood.

If you are off on the side to side by a few mm, then the hinges can be bent ever so slightly by pushing on them and the hood in the direction you need the movement.

Move the seal out of the way, so that it doesn’t get damaged or affect your initial fitting.

Cut off or otherwise remove the bumper mounts for the suspension tube. Either cut in part or the whole thing, depending on your future plans for the front bumper etc. I just trimmed mine down for now, but will be coming back to it later.

Test fit the fender by pushing and holding it as far up against the door ‘V’ as possible. Check out your door to fender gap. Looking good? If not take out the extra material stopping it from being in a good position. Remember, this may be at the ‘V’, but it could also be at the door upright flange. Mine needed a little ‘hammer’ persuasion!

A couple of times I used a thin piece of kids modeling putty to work out where the touch point was. Seemed very helpful.

Check not only the door gap, but also height of the top of the fender against the windshield scuttle and also the fit around the sill next to the door bottom.

Pop the hood seal back in place and close the hood. Now hold the fender back on, while pushing down slightly at the latch of the hood (if the latch isn’t on yet) and make sure the height of the fender to the hood is okay along the length.

Open the hood, pull off the hood seal again and prop the hood open.

Now that the fender is roughly fitting, hold the fender in place and drill from the inside of the trunk, through the mounting holes into the fender in a couple of places. Thread a couple of bolts and washers through and tighten.

Remember that you will have the sticky seal along the edge, by the chassis rail for final fitting.

Replace the seal and see how it is now almost crushed into place. Close the hood and check out your lines.

If needed, (lucky you if you don’t) ‘tap’ the chassis rails (see above for definition of ‘tap’) until you get approximate alignment. As 962 Porsche suggests, a big hammer and a foot long piece of hardwood. Softwood just doesn’t cut it and a straight hammer creates too local a dent.

Do this by removing the fender, hood and seal - then putting them back on again (and off, and on, and off and on etc in my case).

Once it all looks good, drill the rest of the holes as before on an installed fender from inside the hood.

Once you remove the fender again, wonder how far out the dimples are that mark where drilling would have been suggested, and how far off either your car is or their mold is!

I used a paper template to transfer the scuttle bolt locations and would recommend drilling through for the vertical flanges, rather then trying to reuse the captive bolts.

Now repeat on the other fender.

This will probably lead to some further movement of the hood, to even out the gaps. If you are unlucky, you may have to recreate the gap as Peter has suggested above. Or big hammering again as per 962 Porsche’s kind and patient suggestions above.

I will need to clean up the gap distance on my hood to fender as one side isn’t very straight.

And under no circumstances, balance the hood on your head when placing it!

Hope this helps someone out there thinking of tackling this job in future!
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Last edited by Munky King; 09-04-2018 at 03:31 AM..
Old 09-03-2018, 09:21 PM
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