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IdahoDoug IdahoDoug is offline
Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 461
I'm having trouble discerning what you are asking/wanting to accomplish/why the engine is out/what "died" means, etc. So I'm going to make a few assumptions and hopefully be of use in that process.

I'm assuming your engine did NOT suffer any kind of catastrophic failure. I"m assuming it quit running and you are taking the opportunity over the winter to tear it down, clean and refresh seals and put it back together and then in the spring figure out why it quit running. You seem concerned about 6 month old Mobil 1 oil being dirty and bad for the engine. You are concerned about properly "storing" the engine. And you are thinking of using a very strong cleaner such as brake cleaner.

In an overall sense, yes you are completely overthinking this. Your 6 month old Mobil 1 is an excellent preservative to leave in place while you do whatever your plan is. Your lifters are not in any danger and apparently working just fine now or you'd have said something. So check them for wear and don't try opening them up and using a harsh cleaner on them. Whatever you do, mark anything you take off (especially lifters/valve lash adjusters) in a permanent fashion so you can put the engine back together EXACTLY as it was. That's Job #1, #2 and #3. Bag and label things ruthlessly and let your anal retentiveness run amok on this task.

Your "sticky" concern is similarly unfounded. Motor oil has to be crazy old to actually become sticky like molassas and to evolve into something you don't want in your engine. That would take a decade or more to happen and my impression here is this process will take perhaps 6 months or a year. For that length of time, there is absolutely zero work needed to place the parts into a "storage" type coated condition. The natural coating they have from operation will be fine - especially as you are storing them indoors vs out in the rain under a tarp, etc.

There is no need to "clean" the inside of your engine, as normal oil deposits are fine and often loosening that crap up can cause it to go places you don't want it to be. An exception might be the oil pan, where fines settle and it's a great time to clean that out completely if you are disassembling the engine.

So. Be conservative on cleaning the engine. Lots of folks have caused engine issues thinking they are doing the right thing cleaning the inside of a block with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. Don't sweat it. Either fully strip the block and send it off for a professional cleaning if that's your thing, or leave it alone. Wrap and protect it from grit getting into it and then deal with the head so it can be replaced on the engine block in the spring. Once it's all assembled again would be the time to clean the outside conservatively with holes blocked by quality tape, etc. Don't be scrubbing on a block's outside if it's partly assembled. Your brushing and other activities are likely spewing super hard sand and grit INTO the block at times and that's the equivalent of thousands of miles of brutal wear when the whole point of the exercise might have been well intentioned.

84 944, 87 Vanagon, 88 Mitsubishi Van Wagon, 88 Supra Targa, 1990 Audi 90 20V Quattro sedan, 1992 Lexus LS400, 1993 LandCruiser, 1997 LandCruiser, 2017 Subaru Outback.
Old 11-11-2019, 04:04 PM
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