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Jdub Jdub is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,848

So you went ahead and removed the emerg. brake cable, the swingarm bolt at the tbar tube, and the shock and swingplate locations? I guess that is all it would take to drop that arm.

How about getting the new swingarm bushing(s) in - will that require a press of any sort? Do you plan on farming that work out?

I priced the bearings here and they are all of about $100.00 a set. That seems very reasonable and I figure to replace them as per Chuck's advice.

The CV joint regrease seems pretty straightforward from what I have read in our archives. I figure to do that using the Mobil1 synth/moly grease I used for the A-arm bushings.

Nice shots BTW. For the front A-arm bushings, I put the zirks way over on the outside, about 8-90'clock, but then again I had to file a small halfcircle in my covers for the grease gun's end plug-to-zirk. I also sawed off the tow loops on the covers since one was essentially gone, the other scraped and distorted. Now I have covers that I filed smooth. This was probably not a good idea but they didn't match and I can always source a set on the Classified board.

Compressing the A-arm bushing cups towards one another (really, pushing the front cup to the crossmember) was a bit of a bear. I know that many on this 'board used a wood clamp - I had no luck with that. Instead, I took a huge screwdriver and wedged it such that, with the front bushing cup cover on, and it's frontmost bolt handtight, I could lever against the cover so that the front bushing cup was forced towards the crossmember/rear bushing cup, thus removing any fore to aft slop.

I just cannot wait to get this done and the car on the road. However, I also have a valve job awaiting me and I need to put the door reinforcement kit in and a set of stainless "paddles" for the door handles (Rennline).

Old 12-12-2003, 12:35 PM
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