View Single Post
Dave at Pelican Parts Dave at Pelican Parts is offline
Dave at Pelican Parts's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Silly-Con Valley
Posts: 14,370
Send a message via AIM to Dave at Pelican Parts Send a message via Yahoo to Dave at Pelican Parts
Your recipe should work fine. Get comfortable messing with carbs; there is a decent chance you'll do it a lot.

You do not have to go with larger valves, but it should help things flow a bit better. Be careful of not taking too much material out of the area between the valve seats in particular, and on the short radius of the port. There isn't a lot of extra material in that area.

You don't need to relocate the spark plug hole, and it's a lot simpler if you don't. But evidently the 2.0 location is good for some power and torque.

Going with 2-liter heads gives you larger valves and the better plug location, but they do tend to be on the fragile side. Throwing money at the problem can get you some LN heads; new AMC castings modified by Len Hoffman at HAM to be equivalent to the 2-liter heads and which are sold through the "type 4 store" (Google it). Not cheap, though.

The cam is going to be a significant limitation on what you can get from the engine. It is very mild in order to not confuse the D-jet EFI. That leaves a significant amount of potential power on the table, and pretty much kills the power at 5000 RPM.

The mild cam also won't really let you increase compression over the stock 1.7 levels of over 8:1 without starting to run the risk of detonation. (I forget the stock figure now, it may have been 8.6:1 or 8.2:1?) You might even think about dropping it a bit to five the larger bore cylinders a bit more time for a complete burn.

That said, the bottom end of the motor will work fine for a 1911. No changes are required other than pistons and cylinders.

Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car:
Old 05-27-2020, 12:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)