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Superman Superman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 21,297
Simon's broken head stud was in exactly the same place as mine, but I do not think that is responsible for this profuse oil leak. There is no oil to speak of at the cylinder/head junction. Yes, it could be a rocker shaft, and they should be inspected, as should the head stud barrel nuts. Remove all four valve covers and count barrel nuts. There should be 24 altogether, six under each valve cover. While in there, visually inspect the rocker shafts, which are pins (about 3" long and 3/4" in diameter) on which the rockers rock. One end is inset and the other end is flush. Make sure they are all like this.

But I think the real problem is that connection between the can housing and the chain housing. Yes, replacing the gasket and o-ring involves removing a sprocket (and tensioner, etc) and retiming cams afterwards. Keep in touch with us as you do this. This Board has lots of experience, and this is not the job you want to do each weekend. Here's a tip that should have prevented me from having to do this twice: The gasket can settle downwards during the installation process, causing leakage. The gasket is narrow enough that if it is not centered on the three bolt holes, and it is allowed to sag downward, oil can drip from the cam to the bolt hold, and from there to the outside of the engine.

By the way, once you have inspected the heads and determined that no studs are broken and no rocker shafts are loose, then you can button her up and drive all you like, as long as you keep replacing the lost oil.
Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel)
Old 01-22-2004, 10:04 AM
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