[Old H2S]

First you must remove the screws and that needs a Dremel tool and a rotary bur to cut the backs of the staked in screws. The screws must spin easy, easy, easy. Any torque on them and the shafts will bend and you will never get them out, they are very soft. Pull out the throttle blades and they are even softer- brass without damaging the edges, they are cut on an angle and the slightest nick and they will not close all the way you will never get all 6 bore to idle the same. Then comes the reboring the housings for larger bushings. Run the shafts in a lathe to clean up burrs and straighten them out. Cut the new bushings undersize and ream to a "neat slip fit" for the shafts.
Over all you can see this is a huge PITA and the reason the pro's charge 3-4k to rebuild them.
Look on YouTube for some vids and look at the other thread here now about Weber back firing problems and the problems I found. The second carb I started today and it does not match the first one according to the series numbers, plus someone must have used a hammer on it ???
Throttle plates you check with a light beside the top of the carb and look at the lock up on the blades, the center one was out of alignment on both carbs and required VERY CAREFUL edge burnishing to take care of the nicks and dings that were holding it open and the edge off angle must be kept the same or the opening will get bigger not smaller. All the mating surfaces were off a lot. A granite surface plate is the best tool for many of the checks and repairs. Harbor Freight has them for less than 100.00 but you have to go pick them up.
So the Porsche God calls me up last night because he read the other thread and says don't forget to check this ,this, and this.. Crap all of those surfaces were off by a more than was obvious.
The first one I ultrasonic 10 times and the "hidden passage" was still full of crap on 2 of the bores, these things are a time eater, I must have 16 hours on them so far.