Thread: starting woes
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Dave at Pelican Parts Dave at Pelican Parts is offline
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The 1.8 fuel pump does not do the ~1.5 second "buzz" like the 1.7/2.0 fuel pump does when the key goes from "off" to "on". The pump runs when the key is in "start", and also when the flap in the air flow meter has moved off its stop--that is, when any air is getting sucked into the motor.

You can pull the air filter box off a 1.8, but you need to keep the air flow meter attached to the intake hose.

Starting fluid is OK, unless it builds up to the point where it backfires through the intake. That can warp the flap inside the air flow meter, which will then cause all sorts of problems for you until you buy a new one. ($$$!)

I recommend using a spare spark plug for the spark test because that way you don't have a hole in the cylinder head pushing air and fuel out into the engine bay... Where you have a spark plug creating sparks... (See where I'm going with this? If not, then duct tape a fire extinguisher to your leg... )

Unfortunately, there isn't a massive L-jet website like Brad Anders' D-jet website. But the late Buses used (practically) the same injection as the 1.8 914s, so you can find info on http://www.type2.com .

But I would verify the ignition system (do you have spark, how's the timing, etc.) and the presence of fuel and the basic functioning of the motor (compression, valve adjust) before digging into the fuel injection.

BTW, the 1.8s really hate vacuum leaks. Those make the engine run lean, which can eventually damage the engine significantly. (My old 1.8 holed a piston after a couple months' worth of running lean.) They can also cause non-starting conditions, and poor running. So brittle or cracked vacuum hoses are very much not your friends!! Ditto any air leaks in the "parts" of the engine, like in between the accordion pleats on the rubber intake hose. (And cracked or brittle fuel hoses are an invitation for your car to have an engine fire. FIRE BAD!!)

--DD
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Old 12-13-2004, 09:17 AM
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