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H.G.P. H.G.P. is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by aigel
I hate to say it, but in my book there should be no pitting in a cylinder. I am unsure what you mean with "stain". Anything that is not a defect should clean up with some steel wool and break parts cleaner.

The honing you will do, likely is with a ball hone and just to put a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder to assure proper ring seating? This is not going to take off any significant amount of material, nor will it cover the entire area evenly. There will be deeper and there will be shallower grooves. None of that will clean up pitting, unless it is very minor.

I'd clean the walls with a fine steel wool as good as you can and then give it a shot and see how they look after honing. Maybe you get lucky and it is minor enough to clean up. If it is still there after honing, get a set of replacement cylinders.

Hope this helps.
George

That I'll try tomorrow. Thanks.

The only thing I could find with rust pitting on the net with pictures is here....
http://www.antique-engine.com/abel/abel02.htm
Kind of neat and the LaBlond videos here http://www.antique-engine.com/video/videoclips.htm

The rust of course looks nothing like the above. It is speckled. sporadically speckled on the inside wall. It is not in the ring step area. I can close my eyes and move my fingers through the cylinder, and over these spots the metal is still smooth. The "pitting" I've never seen in a defective cylinder so I can't ID it. What appears as pitting I can still run my finger over and is smooth.

(The one defective cylinder I've already thrown out has what I term as a "gouge", I could not smooth it at all with 180)

I may take a pic after steel-wooling but my digital is low resolution. In the meantime I'll work on checking of the availability of a decent replacement.


Also, the grape hone to me literally is "fine haired" hatch.. Is this what a grape hone hatch should look like?

Thanks
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Last edited by H.G.P.; 01-07-2005 at 11:28 PM..
Old 01-07-2005, 11:13 PM
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