Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Beech Grove, IN
I can't comment on the fronts though they do use the same parts. The rears, however, are a different story. They are a major PITA. There are inner and outer tapered bearings and seals along with a spacer that is recommended to be replaced. The races suck to get out and require special tools or if you don't have them, ingenuity. If you just try to drive them out with a hammer and drift you risk a VERY expensive trailing arm replacement. The same holds true for installing the new races. You will also need a torque wrench that goes to 325 ft/lbs and a dial indicator with mag base. The bearings are pulled together by the drive shaft inserted through them. You will have to torque the axle nut to the specified value (can't remember what it is now) and check for play with the indicator. If the play is within tolerance you torque to the next value and so on.
If you have access to a lift life will be a lot easier, if not, I would remove the trailing arms. It can be done either way but speaking from experience trying to do this while laying under the car sucks. Do some searching and you'll find some info about it but not a lot. The best thing to have is the factory workshop manual, it's arguably necessary.
1979 RoW 930
1999 BMW Z3
Originally posted by randywebb
It is the people who have some kind of psychological problem and use the car (or some hierarchy they set up involving the cars) to try to elevate their personal sense of self-worth that irks me. I feel sorry for them of course, but they are difficult to put up with.