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Grady Clay Grady Clay is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
I use the same basic technique as Scott.

A couple of things to note.
I ONLY have the #1 or #4 intake rocker installed, never all six on a side.
I lightly oil the cam threads, nut and washer.
Over the years I have made and modified the wrench and holder. The holder is a modified milled (not stamped) version. The wrench is a modified SnapOn 46 mm offset box wrench (3’handle) with a ” socket welded on for the torque wrench.

With this issue, I would carefully inspect the toothed hub, pin and sprocket for wear at the pin surfaces. The pin should fit ‘tight’ in the sprocket and need a screw to remove it (a sparkplug works). I have disassembled some engines where the sprocket and toothed hub were so worn the builder installed two pins in adjacent holes (and had incorrect timing).

The spec for the pin to toothed hub (Porsche calls this a ‘sprocket carrier’) is 0.000 to 0.0.029 mm. The spec for pin to sprocket is 0.032 to 0.610 mm. I would run these clearances as tight as possible consistent with correct cam timing.

I never adjust the cam timing exactly where I want it on the first try.

I use a solid tensioner when measuring. I never use the chain to restrain the cam sprocket. That always gives a poor adjustment.

Always measure many times, particularly after you have the normal chain tensioner installed and all the rockers. Never turn the engine counter to the normal CW direction. If you go past TDC, continue two more revolutions.

At you first service (and occasionally thereafter) you should measure the cam timing after torquing the heads and rocker arm shafts and adjusting the valves.

Best,
Grady
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Old 09-29-2007, 05:46 PM
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