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Twystd1 Twystd1 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: SoKal
Posts: 194
You either have your dizzy recurved to TYPE IV specs by someone that KNOWS HOW to do it.
(hard to find unless they have a working distributor machine and they know how to use it and what specs to curve it to.)

Or buy the proper dizzy for your engine.
The 009 was NEVER made for a TYPE IV engine. It was made as a performance option for a TYPE I engine. The 009 advance curve SUCKS big time for your engine.

I can't get a Type IV engine to run right with carbs when guys run the 009.
And I have tried So many times. I simply won't tune TYPE IV engines anymore if they have an 009.
The tuning always ends up in a crappy compromise and they engines NEVER run right.

Once they step up to a Stock TYPE IV dizzy..... or even better..... A Mallory Unilite distributor. The carb tuning is SSSooooo much easier.
More performance.
Way better fuel mileage and all around improved performance.
YES it does make that much difference when you toss that 009 in the river and run a proper distributor for your engine.
I have been here too many times with other guys. 009s dizzys simply suck for your application. PERIOD....

NOTE: Your vents are WAY WAY WAY to big for your engine. You need 32s and probably a re-jet to get your engine to run effectively.

You will NEVER get your engine to run remotely correct with 36 vents.

GO BUY THE WEBER TUNING MANUAL and read it from front to back until you understand Weber carb basics. or find a type IV tuner that knows whasss up in your area.

NOTE: MOST Type I guys can't help you. These are different engines. And what works for a TYPE I doesn't necessarily flow over to the TYPE IV engine.... I know this to be true.

If you have an ADJUSTABLE fuel pressure regulator. You place it BEFORE the carbs and AFTER the pump. Use no return line to tank. You don't need it.
If you DO have an adjustable regulator. And it is for an injected engine... You are wasting your time. The odds of it working at 2.5 - 3lbs of fuel pressure is remote.

The gauge you should use should be a gauge that reads no more than about 20PSI.
(Lower is better)
As a typical inexpensive fuel pressure gauge is most accurate in the middle of it's resolution. A 50 LB gauge sucks at 2.5 lbs if you are looking for accurate data.

My gauges max at 10lbs. (From CB Performance)

If you are using an FI pump... I would replace it with a Weber fuel pressure "specific" pump.
In that way... You have NO regulator. One less thing to mess with. And just keeps it simple.

Try Re-reading the above posts.

Do what the fellas here said to do.. And report back.
By the way.........
You have some really smart guys posting to your thread. Many of us have walked your path... We know.....

I screwed all this stuff up before you. ( I remember the frustration...LOL....)
Thats how we all learned to fix all these problems.
You are in good company here.

I / We would LIKE TO SEE YOU GET YOUR CAR RUNNING LIKE A SEWING MACHINE ON STEROIDS...!!!!!!

Or come to Cali and Da SoCal crew will hook ya up...!!!!!!!!!

NOTE: The above is simply my experience. Yours may well be different.

Clayton
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Last edited by Twystd1; 10-04-2007 at 07:47 PM.. Reason: I was staring at a picture of Slits in a clown suite.
Old 10-04-2007, 07:38 PM
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