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sand_man sand_man is offline
"I wuz the liquor..."
 
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cooterville, Cackalacky
Posts: 6,413
WARNING: I am at a total loss for how to advise you and am trying my best not to mislead you or scare you. I've gone through this myself - total rebuild with mods.

The slippery slope that I alluded to in my fist response usually starts, because while you've got this engine out to do some "freshening up", it often times seems like not much more to just split the case and make sure that foundation (the bottom end) really is solid. HOWEVER, splitting the case and doing it right means that the crank, case, oil pump, intermediate shaft/gear, rods, bearings, oil galley, etc. are all inspected, measured, machined (when needed), cleaned, replaced (when needed), etc. Some of this is basic work, some is more complicated. But in the end you know what you've got...provided the work is done properly! Sort of like creating your own baseline; the buck starts and stops with you, and history is reset - new /rebuilt engine. But what I've just described is only the bottom-end, haven't even touched on the heads, valves, cam towers, rockers, cams, all cam hardware, Ps&Cs, etc. As you can see, it is a lot! These are complicated engines and being that they are built from the crank centerline outwards (in a modular fashion) each little tolerance will add up and can influence your deck height and compression ratio...thus for a proper rebuild, nothing is usually left to chance, and this peace of mind is what you are paying for.

FWIW, I was once told that with these engines, you can usually get one top-end rebuild before REALLY needing to go into the case...of course many factors play a part, mostly historical ones that reside with prior owners. If at all possible, my advice would be to try and take advantage of that one top-end rebuild. The ARP rod bolts are traditionally installed with a stretch gauge, but it is not mandatory, and an experienced engine builder might be able to make due with the torque method for installation....this would negate the need for having to split the case - rods can be removed and installed without having to split the case. From my perspective, I could never split the case and have all of these oily parts staring at me without feeling a responsibility to jump through the expensive hoops I described above...THAT'S JUST ME. So that's why I'm inclined to advise you to avoid it if you don't think you are up to the challenge...if you are, and your checkbook, and patience are handy, then by all means take the plunge and build a fresh new engine!

And then there is resale! Generally speaking, these cars are expected to come with a working engine capable of passing a PPI...so you won't be adding too much value to your car by going through these motions...some but not much. So it's a good thing you intend to keep it!
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-jeff
back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)

Last edited by sand_man; 11-28-2007 at 07:09 AM..
Old 11-28-2007, 07:04 AM
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