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les_garten les_garten is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: PSL, FL
Posts: 861
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1topcat View Post
Fred and Mike,

Good points you raised about the Master cyclinder seals, wouldn't it be best to not just push the brake to the floor? Rather just pump it thru its normal range so as to not take the Master to areas where it has not been traveling. That would still bleed them fine and not chance damaging the seals. And still way easier imho. What do you think Les?
Hi,
I think they make an "interesting" point. However, I've been bleeding brakes in old cars for 30 something years and never had one that failed after a bleeding. No offense, but I would file this under the "theoretical" and "interesting" categories.

What I do know is that you just put a hose on the speed bleeder into a jar, crack it open and pump it to feed fluid into the jar, close bleeder, and move to the next one. You do need to watch the reservoir. Makes a fluid change/refresh super easy. Crack it open, pump it till you get good looking fluid, close and move to the next one.
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---Les Garten---85 930, Andial IC, GHL Headers, Fabspeed Dual, K-27 HF2, 3.4 JE Full Finned 7.5:1 CR, 964 CAM'd, Carerra 3.2 Manifold Cut/Flipped, Tec3r, Siemans 55#, GSF Fuel Rails, Clewett Crank Trigger, Clewett Cam Trigger,Dual Plugged, ARP Head Studs/Rod Bolts, Clewett Wires.Tial 46mm WG, Tial 50mm BOV, WEVO Shifter,934 Boost Gauge, Wideband EGO Sensor/Gauge, C2T Head Gaskets, '88 MB 300TE,BMW R100RT
Old 04-21-2008, 07:04 PM
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