View Single Post
voitureltd voitureltd is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bayside Wi
Posts: 2,502
Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanUK View Post
Yes, hope you checked the Voltage? I have a nasty feeling your alternator might be producing too many volts and burning everything...

IIRC 13.8V is all you want, no more.
NathanUK, Murf, Thanks for the suggestion. That you both agree is a good sign. I will get a reading on the voltage output tomorrow. In case the test is 13.8 or less, anything else I should check for? At the show when it would not start it acted like a bad fuel pump,or leaky F P check valve as it cranked for close to two minutes before starting. Then it drove home 10 miles. That is when, after sitting for a few minutes test drove it up the block and the tach went way up and blew the fuel pump fuse. In past experiences the tach jumping has generally been a faulty CDI box. After I switched it with another CDI it now only has the tach jump after 10 min. of driving and does not blow the fuse even though it blew the fuse the second time the tach jumped with the original CDI box. That is why I asked if the original CDI box was damaged from whatever as they now display different faults. Also this may lead to a more complicated or multi causal part if this is contemplated with the various effects, or someone has experienced the same situation? I will definitely check the voltage output first. Also of note the last fuel pump relay gets a lot warmer than the one toward the front of the car. I have changed out them both since this problem started and noticed the heat difference between front and rear mounted relays. With the new relays the heat differential is the same as with the originals.

Last edited by voitureltd; 06-23-2008 at 07:05 PM..
Old 06-23-2008, 06:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)