View Single Post
beepbeep beepbeep is offline
Registered User
beepbeep's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sweden
Posts: 5,564
Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
I'm not a techno person on the computer/electronic stuff - can find broken wires, measure resistance etc - but thats about it. But we are trialling some very small cameras (size of an egg) on karts, considering making it mandatory for each kart to carry one. To resolve race incidents. They take a small memory card and record up to 2 hrs of info in digital form, then overwrite the original stuff - continuous. You pull the card out, plug in laptop and high quality pictures/sound emerge. You can slow- mo, freeze frame. The quality is so good you would think you were in the seat. No vibration, blurring, whatever. So am looking at installing one to monitor the gauges. Cost about $200. Probably cheaper than setting up datalogging, and can use in car later.
You can see from your data that there is a quick AFR boost dump - which I suspect they want. With my WUR boost port disconnected, I am not getting this, but somewhat unexpectedly, get a progressive lowering of AFR. So at the point yours drops from say 14.5 to 12? mine would would go 14.4, 14.3, 14.2..... until at max revs we hit 12. But if I hook the boost dump in at moment I would go 13.5 - 9.5 and stay there.
Trying to order digi WUR at moment. Once they discover where NZ is, we will be in business. The site won't let me order at moment - because it has not heard of NZ, and I'm not allowed to tell it. Columbus found America a few hundred years ago, but techno Unwired has yet to find NZ.
Hello Alan!

If I understand you correclty, your pre-boost AFR's are roughly OK (~14.4) but problem is that they don't go down to 12's when boost comes? And if you connect boost compensation hose to WUR, they get too rich, correct?

Well that's easy thing to solve:
Just lower the pressure in WUR boost port until you got AFR's in 12:s at boost. Its just amatter of fitting a controllable leak. I suggest following:

Connect boost hose to WUR trough a plastic T-piece. Let one side go to WUR and another to your filter box (or add one-way valve to it). This will make pressure going to WUR drop to 0.3 bar or so (depends on hose diameter, use small diameter hose so you don't have to bleed lot's of air or you idle will go up).

Then just fiddle with amount of bleed until pressure going into WUR is just right to keep AFR's in 12:s. If you are lucky, you won't need digital WUR at all

Thank you for your time,
Old 08-05-2008, 12:43 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #89 (permalink)