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rsrmike rsrmike is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 538
+1 to above. Coming apart is the really easy part!! normally what you will find, even w/ an alignment tool, the clutch disk can still droop a little, as you tighten the PP. You almost need someone to hold the alignment shaft on center as you tighten the PP.

Then, when it's time to mate the trans to the engine, put the trans in gear and have someone wiggle the drive flanges back and forth until the splines of the input shaft align with the clutch disc. If you have a limited slip you can do it yourself with one hand on one flange but if not, you really need to wiggle both flanges, until they "lock in"

you have to do all this while supporting the engine and keeping it stationary (it helps to park it against something imobile) As well as lining up the clutch fork with the tabs on the release bearing and keeping the bearing from rotating.

Make sure, before you reinstall the engine/trans that you have the clutch fork aligned equally with BOTH tabs on the release bearing, use a mirror for the bottom tab until you get familiar with eyeballing the top fork/tab. Otherwise, you may be in for a major disapointment the first time you push the clutch and the fork slips off the release bearing. It's much easier to correct when the engine is on the floor versus after everything else is hooked up and you thought you were ready to crank it. (don't ask me how I know this)

It's good practice to actually hook up the clutch cable, adjust the clutch, and test the pedal right after you have securely mounted the engine & trans, before proceeding with hooking everything else up, just in case
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:36 PM
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