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Alan L Alan L is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 3,550
There is no problem in removing the fuel head - you wont get into any bother if that works out the better option.
As you may have worked out - there are 3 nuts holding the box/fuel head on. One is at the RH end of the box - back in a bit from the WUR, one is at the LH front corner - approx, and the tricky one is at the LH rear corner. I find a 3/8 extension fits nicely down the back with the ratchet clearing the box - assuming the ext length is OK.
I disconnect all the lines at the fuel head - cyls 124&5 at the union, cyls 3 &6 remove the banjo bolt. This gives you enough room to get to the WUR fuel line union.
Yes - there are the fittings on the front of the head too. Then, your head is clear to lift off if you need to, or take out complete with the box if you can get enough room. I have done both ways. On the LHS of the manifold, you have a few hoses to unhook. The throttle body stays intact - but you need to disconnect it at the ball clip joint.
Other than that nothing too tricky. You will have a couple of elec plugs to disconnect in back - the air plate safety switch - up between fuel head and air plate, and the CSV in behind the manifold. You can probably get these as you remove the box.
It is a pretty straight foward job.
Torque the new spacers down. 18 ft lb. THEN refit the box/fuel head.
If you split the fuel head out, you may find the O ring already damaged. I re-chamfered the entry into the box for mine - I was forever slicing them up when refitting. This makes a nice new air leak. It is a standard O ring (36 x 2 mm from memory - but I use a 35 x2 - snugger fit, easier mounting)- so I buy them in a pack of 2 or 3 at a time, in case I slice one when refitting. Use some WD 40 spray type lube on it when refitting, and wiggle it into place, or screw down in rotate fashion - screw 1 , couple turns, screw 2 couple turns etc, to seat it down without pinching O ring.
Old 11-25-2008, 09:58 AM
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