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Step 6- Drying Vehicle surface When you are done rinsing the car of all the soap, you want to remove the nozzle from the hose and do what’s called the “flooding” method. Flood the surface of the car from top to bottom with the hose. This turns those thousands of little beads of water into one big sheet, and it helps dry the car faster. After that is done, use you waffle weave drying towel from the top down to dry the rest of the car.

There should be very little water left on the surface of the car left at this point. Make sure if you see a spot of dirt you missed, or loose debris on the car, don’t touch it with your drying towel, re-wash the area and then dry.I usually use a couple of inexpensive micro fibers to dry the wheels and tires. Wheels can get water spots as well, so you want to make sure you dry those along with the paint.Using the proper drying tools is also important.

I like to use something called a “waffle weave” towel for drying which is one of the safest way to dry your car. Another common tool is the chamois and we can go as far as using leaf blowers to completely remove all the water from all the tight spaces and trim.

Step 7- Taping Since we are going to do a full detail job the use of power tools will be needed, as safety measurement we will tape all the trim areas and delicate areas, the main purpose of this step is “in case” that we make contact with the power tool we will not damage the trim area, not taking the important step while using a power tool could result on leaving “scuffing marks” on the unprotected surfaces. We like to use 2’ masking tape and at times we choose bright colors so they stand out.

Step 8- Swirl Remover/ Light Scratches and paint corrections In this step you should tackle all of the above problems; this could be a very long section which can be addressed with many different tools so we will concentrate in the Swirl Remover and the Porter Cable for tool.

What is a Porter Cable- General Speaking?

The Porter Cable 7424 dual-action car polisher started the pro-consumer car polisher market life more than a decade ago, the Porter Cable 7424 is the industry standard which is a dual-action car polisher. A machine that operates by orbiting the polishing pad around a center spindle while the pad freely spins on its own axis. A counterweight on the opposite side of the center spindle dampens vibration for smooth operation. The tool head action, often called orbital, prevents the creation of holograms (symmetrical buffing marks), paint burns and other forms of paint damage often associated with high-speed buffing machines.

The polishing action of a dual-action polisher closely mimics that of circular hand polishing. With this tool(s) many different foam pads can be used, they all come in many sizes designs and colors, the color is the industry standard rule of thumb for a certain job, all do recently more and more colors are appearing in the market.

Yellow Foam Pad- Use for Heavy duty Compound
Orange Foam Pad- Use for Light duty compound
Green Foam Pad- Use for Compound/Polish
White Foam Pad- Use for Polish
Black Foam Pad- Use for machine Glaze
Blue Foam Pad- Use for Polish/Sealant

Those are the most popular ones when using such of tool; in our case we will use the Orange foam pad and the White foam pad. With brand new foam pads we like to spray a very light mist of water or detailer, only when they are brand new pads. Extreme care must be taken when working on near the taped areas, I personally like to start with a speed of 4 and from there work up to the speed # 6 but I do most of the work at 4.

I believe this is a personal preference same as the machine in use, products, pad brand and technique, I also recommend to run the Porter Cable power core thru the shoulder to avoid any contact with the work area and surface area. To accomplish this task we have found out that the systems that works for us is as follow: Use with an air or electric Random Orbital Buffer, preferably with a 3/8 stroke.

With electric use a medium to high setting. With air, make sure 90 psi is maintained at the tool when in use.

Step 9- Pre Wax We have not only completely stripped all the old wax via our oxidation block, while the vehicle surface has been corrected with our swirl remover I still like to go and apply our pre wax as part of the entire system. Pre-wax is just as the name implies, to get the surface ready for wax to be applied. Tar spots, some tree saps and various other surface contaminates are usually not taken off by a product that is termed wax only.

Your better pre-cleaners have a small amount of abrasive in them, and a lot of the wax/cleaners on the market have a very high content of solvents in them. The wax/cleaners with high solvent content in them need to be avoided, as they will eventually deteriorate the surface to which they are applied. Pre Wax Cleanser is especially formulated to be used prior to applying Car Wax. If you're trying to get a really incredible deep, vibrant shine from your wax, you need to use a pre wax cleanser to properly prepare the surface prior to use Car Wax.

The benefit of Pre Wax Cleanser is that is prepares the surface after you wash it, so that the paint surface doesn’t get contaminated by dirt or anything else that may keep you from getting the ultimate protection.The process is very close to the one done with the swirl remover, on this step we like to apply the Pre Wax by hand but will remove it via porter cable with a white pad and touch it up with a high quality super soft Micro fiber towel, again extreme car must be taken with trim areas and delicate areas. Applied by hand

Step 10 - Car Wax We now move to the final step, the application of the car wax, Again we like to apply the wax by hand and remove via porter cable using a white foam pad and finished with a super flush Micro fiber towel. With our car wax you don’t need multiple products to accomplish astonishing results, it doesn’t get any easier. The use of Porter Cable is not necessary for the pre wax and wax steps but for an extreme detail they help a lot.

Applied by hand, I like to use the Porter Cable with a Microfiber towel to remove the wax, it seems to work great for me.

Step 11 Tire Dressing I like to apply a tire gel using an applicator with a very thin layer of tire gel to the tire sidewall if more shine is desired a second coat can be applied, most of the time one coat is enough, The Tire Gel also prevents premature sidewall dry rot and cracking. One of the biggest complains of today’s car enthusiast is the “Sling” created by many of today’s inferior products used to dress your car tires.

Step 12- Final Touch At this time all the tape can be removed, any areas in need of a touch up can be done now, for this step I like to use a brand new high quality Micro fiber towel. From here relax and enjoy your accomplishment


I hope this information is useful
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10.76@139-1/4 mile
0-1 mile 193MPH
I Love to Shine Cars
Old 02-14-2009, 06:04 PM
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