Thread: 3% CO on LM-1
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JFairman JFairman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,274
Originally Posted by 911st View Post
I wonder to. It is difficult to get a basic car with before and after test results.

Adding volume above the metering plate is concept I learned from a CIS consultant I paid a retainer to when developing my car. That "velocity cone" as borrowed from I believe an AMG tuned MBZ, may or may not work as such. The maker's sale was not increased fueling as I suspect but was increased air flow. Not sure if that flies unless it reduces turbulence around the metering plate. Been wondering about that for about 7 years now. But what do I know, I am just a want to be engineer I guess.

The best.
You made a rough drawing of one in previous posts that was wedge shaped with the higher side toward the rubber intake hose so it looked like full throttle air flow would push it and the airflow plate down farther while probably not affecting how much airflow pushes it down at idle and low speed driving.

To make something like that yourself you could use a very lightweight sandable material like divinicel closed cell pvc foam used in foam core sandwich boat hull fabrication that is resistant to gasoline fumes and to medium heat.
It could be glued to the top of the metering plate with epoxy glue. If it was too heavy might have to add weight to the counterbalance weight at the other end of the arm under the fuel head so it balances the same as a stock one when there is no control fuel pressure acting on it.

I kinda doubt the aluminum one we've seen pics of would increase airflow a noticeable or measurable amount. It's good sized airflow gap when the metering plate is pushed down around an inch.
The biggest restriction in the air intake is where the origonal steel down pipe goes between the aluminum charge pipe and around the motor mount. It looks like some one took a ballpeen hammer to it and narrowed it down more than needed to make it fit into that small area... an afterthought.

I'd like to heat that steel pipe up to very red hot and try to expand the hammered in area outward around a 3/8 to 1/2 inch to make the air passageway a little bigger and better flowing and still fit. If I only had a tool to get in there through the curves and expand it.
If.. you could seal the ends off and get enough air pressure in there while that section is very red hot that would expand it.
Or have someone make a bigger diameter one out of aluminum.
The plastic 965 downpipe looks like it's bends are smoother, bigger and would probably flow air better too.

Last edited by JFairman; 11-22-2009 at 09:36 AM..
Old 11-22-2009, 09:32 AM
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