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JFairman JFairman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,274
Try leaning your idle mixture.
Turn the 3mm allen head CO adjustment screw counterclockwise or left for lean just a little bit to lean it out. You have to push the allen head down into the spring loaded CO adjustment thing next to the fuel head until you feel it engage and then you can turn it, but only turn it a little, the idle AFR changes quickly with small turns of that screw.
Don't blip the throttle while the allen head wrench is inserted.

The final adjustment turn on that screw should be clockwise so you have to go a little too lean or counterclockwise at first and then turn it back clockwise making it rich again until it's right.
If you have experience adjusting idle mixture screws on carburated engines and especially multi carburated engines by ear it will be easy.

If the engine decelerates faster than you like after a throttle blip and stalls then it's still too rich at idle or the ignition timing is also too retarded or maybe your car has a really light flywheel and clutch assembly installed.

If your car does not have a working oem throttle body bypass deceleration valve/vacuum limiter than putting a working one in will make the engine decelerate slower as if the flywheel gained 15+ pounds, but if the idle mixture and timing are correct you do not need one to keep it from stalling after a throttle blip.
The decel valve bypasses air around the throttle butterfly during high manifold vacuum decelerations and it has the same effect as not taking your foot all the way off the gas pedal while the engine decelerates.
Old 11-30-2009, 11:43 AM
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