Thread: Innovate LM2?
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cole930 cole930 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Auburn,In. U.S.A.
Posts: 2,449

The Inovate equipment I have is the LM-1 and the LM2-A which is the RPM converter. I thought that was the same setup you have.

I run a piggybacked wire off the purple/black wire on the back of the tach directly to the rpm input on the LM2-A. I considered telling you to do that because picking it up off the coil is probably where most of your noise is comming from. You can also find that purple/black tach wire on the CD ignition connector and in a connector on the left side of the engine compartment under or near the fuel filter.

The AFR display is a Dyna Tune. You can get one off the Dyna Tune web site. Dyna Tune made it specifacly to interface with the LM-1. It comes with the cable and connector and plugs directly into the analog out port on the LM-1. You don't want to plug it in the LM-1 until you have the LM-1 up and running correctly and reading afr's at that point just follew the instructions that come with the display.

I have the MAP sensor, the control pressure transducer, and the system pressure transducer wired into Aux. inputs 2,3,and 4 of the LM-2A. Input 1 is used for RPM only. That still leaves Aux input 5 as a spare on the LM2-A. I think I sent you the transducer info. The transducers are direct hook ups to the LM2-A because they are 5VDC outputs. The MAP sensor, for boost, needs a 5VDC power supply to power the MAP sensor then the output from the MAP sensor is 5VDC and will also hook directly to the LM2-A . When I get the DWUR on and tuned I may be disconnecting the control pressure sensor from the L2-A and just plumb a regular gauge into the control pressure line.

As far as the LM-1 is concerned I will probably just leave it in the car so I have the AFR display all the time. I have hooked the LM-1 to 12 VDC and added a switch on the dash to turn it on and off and I just disconnected the 9 volt batt. When I want to log it's easy to just push the record button as it is a large button and easy to reach. When I want to down load to the computer I will just pull the LM-1, connect the 9 VDC, and hook it to the laptop. I have a Bosch wideband and they are rated at 1000 hours so I'll try to just run it all the time so I can display afr. If it burns up too fast I'll have to go to a plan B.

Try puttnig the LM-1 in the cubby hole of the console, sideways on the floor at the front of your seat, or velcroed on the rear edge and proped against the coin tray on the console.

I have all the part numbers for the MAP and MAP connector, and a 5VDC power supply. If you need them.

A heads up on a couple things, suggestions. On your sensors and MAP
wiring. Go to Home Depot and buy some 3- 4 wire shielded thermostat wire. There will be 3- 4 colored wires in it and it is shielded. Use that for wiring your sensors back to the LM-1. Its easy to pull through the tunnel and the shielding helps ground issues. Run a ground wire from the Bat Neg. to the cabin. Cut the plug off the LM-1 cigarette power plug and find a good constant power source you can add a switch to and then tie the other end of the switch to the red lead from the cut off power wire. Hook the new ground wire to the black lead of the power plug and then to the ground terminal on the LM2-A. All you sensors should be 3 wire 1 grnd.,1 power, and 1 input/signal/output ( different manufactures call them different things). Hook the sensor ground wires to the same ground lug on the
LM2-A as your new ground wire from the power plug. The shields go there too. Hook the sensor power wires to the same red power wire on the LM-1 switch you added. Then the sensor input/signal/output wires hook to the LM2-A aux input screws. If you do this you should have no issues. When you wire your sensors in the engine compartment to the thermostat wire if the sensors have a foil shield around them twist those to the foil shield on the thermostst wire. If the sensors don't have foil shield just cut the thermostat wire shield off at the caseing. Also be sure to try pulling your LM2-A tach signal input off the purple/ balck wire on the back of the tach.

On the next page I have attached a picture of my MAP and sensor connections in my engine compartment. To the left of the 2nd. MAP sensor you will see a 6 lug terminal block. That is my engine sensors terminal block. The top wires are from the thermostat wire in the tunnel to the LM2-A and the botton 6 wires are off the sensors pigtails. Wiring it this way allows you to replace a sensor on the engine if needed without having to cut wires. Use soldered spade connectots to insure good connections.

Cole - 80 930 "The Old Sled"
Mods: TurboKraft Custom IC, 934 Headers, GSX 61, Zork, Port Work, SC Cams, Air Mod Fuel Dist Relocated, Water Meth Injection, BL WUR, MSD 6530, Greddy EBC, Synapse Bov, Short 2nd & 3rd with 8:37 R&P, Wevo Shifter, Coupling, and Mounts, MTX-L SSI-4, Big Brakes, Rebel Coilovers, Bilstein Sports.

Last edited by cole930; 04-26-2010 at 12:10 PM..
Old 04-25-2010, 09:43 PM
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