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JFairman JFairman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,224
If the picture is of your car it looks like someone removed the red vacuum advance hose from the late eightees (USA emissions) dual pot distributor and plugged it with something and then turned that distributor clockwise as far as the origonal slot allows to sort of make up for it.
Only the centrifical advance would be working now, and the blue vacuum retard hose is still hooked up.

(without the red vacuum advance hose hooked up to work on the other side of the distrbutor pot diaphram it's ~possible the vacuum retard hose and pot is turning into something like boost advance and that might lead to detonation under boost... but i'm just guessing on that)

If you don't need emission controls then don't worry about the little mechanical thermal valve on the breather cover in the vacuum advance line.
It's purpose is to block vacuum advance from the distributor pot while the motor is cold so the ignition timing is retarded which makes the exhaust temperature higher and heats up the catalytic converter faster. You loose a little low end torque while the timing is retarded to do that.
The thermal valve is supposed to open after engine heat transfers into it and that takes a little while and you have no way to know if it's working or not.

Not having any vacuum advance at idle may be why it idles so slow when cold and or it may be the AAV not opening when cold as Mark said.
Old 06-04-2010, 08:07 AM
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