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oilonly oilonly is offline
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Join Date: May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
It's way easiest to remove the whole bumper with valence, license plate and heat sheild all left in place, and you have alot more access.

Like has been said there are 2 nylocks and washers holding it on each side and they are under the rubber strips.
You don't have to remove the whole rubber strip, just remove the philips head machine screw under the plastic cap in the middle of the rubber strip next to the bumperette. These steel screws thread right into the aluminum bumper and get wet when it rains or you wash the car so a little anti-seize is good on them when reinstalling
Untuck it from the slot in the bumperette and let it swing out, you will see the 13mm nylocks.

There are small nylocks on the studs in the rubber bellows that are easy to get off from the inner side under the car with a 1/4" drive socket wrench.
The rubber bellows are usually stiff and it takes some pulling to get the studs out of the small holes on the end of the bumper but they come out. This is where it's easy to scratch a little paint on the ends of the bumpers, but it's aluminum and any possible scratches will be hidden under the rubber bellows when reinstalled.

I put insulated spade terminals in the license plate light wire harness so it's quicker and alot easier to reconnect them when removing and reinstalling the bumper in the future.
Thanks JFairman, I took my bumper off today using you advice and it worked out great.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD
Old 10-24-2010, 05:14 PM
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