View Single Post
JFairman JFairman is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,267
The nozzle isn't pointed straight down from the top. It's on the top side of the pipe and is installed 90 degrees to the airflow through the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body. I don't see how it would make any difference if the nozzle was in the top, side, or bottom of the pipe. It will be 90 degrees to the airflow in any of those locations.

My first thought was to install the nozzle on the bottom side of the pipe under the intercooler so it would be hidden from view unless you looked under the intercooler. If I did that I was going to run the nylon water line alongside the fuel lines to the fuel head and mount the water filter and checkvalve under the intercooler somewhere. The filter and checkvalve can be anywhere in the line between the pump and nozzle but I wanted it in the engine compartment in case it sprang a water leak. Better there than in the trunk or interior.

I chose the top side of the pipe for the nozzle and air cleaner housing for the checkvalve and water filter so I wouldn't have to remove the intercooler to clean the filter or the nozzle. This way I don't have to remove anything to clean the filter and I only have to unbolt the air cleaner and lift and move it back a couple inches to remove the nozzle if it ever needs it.

I forgot to mention before the nozzle size # is M5.
Thats the one they recommend for a motor making around 400 crank horsepower at 1-1.2 bar boost.

This is the better pump of the two they sell for WMI and it comes set at 200psi and there is an allen head on the pump head side of it you can turn to lower the pressure to 150psi or raise it to 250psi.

Like a bosch fuel pump there is an internal spring loaded pop off valve inside the pump that will open at a set high pressure and recirculate the liqued inside the pump back to the input side so it doesn't labor and stop running when the pressure max's out. That keeps the fluid flow smooth and steady at high pressure and lets the pump motor run a steady speed and last longer.

edit: Just noticed your other post about a WMI controller.

Yes, a good reliable adjustable progressive controller for the water pump would be nice and an improvement to the system.
I didn't buy a kit with that included because I wanted to keep the cost down and try the kit without it using an adjustable boost on/off switch for the pump first and see how it worked. I figured I would add the controller later if I needed it.
So far it's working great the way it is: coming on at full pressure around .8bar with no controller and it's not making the engine misfire or loose power when it first comes on. The controller adds around $150 to the cost depending on what company you get it from.

I've never heard any detonation around .5 to .7 bar so at this time I don't think I need to spend the money on a controller. The controller also adds more electronic complexity to a simple system and creates another thing that can eventually go wrong and ruin your day.
I have a relatively quiet muffler and have heard intermittant pinking type detonation briefly around .8 bar and higher back when I was tuning the B.L. adjustable WUR and would let off on the gas when I heard it and readjust the WUR to richen the boost AFR to stop it.

I have to admit it's real difficult and dangerous to be watching the boost gauge and WMI blue indicator light out of the corner of my eye that comes on with the water pump while flooring the car in 4th gear out on the interstate with other traffic not far away.
The boost gauge needle raises to fast in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear to be sure exactly where it was when the blue light comes on. In 4th gear the mechanical boost gauge needle raises alot slower so it's easier to tell where it is when the light comes on.
I mounted the blue light in the prexisting hole in the instrument cluster behind the black vinyl up top between the tach and oil gauge so it is easy to see when driving. I have a red shift light in the other hole between the top of the tach and speedometer. Those holes are in all 911 instrument clusters and you can feel them back there if you press on the vinyl.
Generic auto part stores have a selection of small round lights in different colors that will fit there.

Last edited by JFairman; 04-28-2011 at 06:58 AM..
Old 04-28-2011, 05:52 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #275 (permalink)