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polizei polizei is online now
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Collegeville, PA
Posts: 1,344
Yes, it's possible. In addition to Spence's list you'd need: Protomotive Stage 1 Chip, Innovate LM-1 or LM-2 Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Meter for dialing in the fuel, fuel pressure gauge, turbo gaskets, Waste-gate, WG Spring, blow off valve, fab'd charge pipe or series of aluminum pipes/silicone connectors/clamps, fab'd intake tubing, turbo oil feed, oil return line to case... My stock hard oil line interfered with the turbo oil return line to case, so I replaced the stock hard oil line with an Elephant Racing Universal Crossover Tube ($200 - ELEPHANT RACING 911 Oil Lines and Hoses). Another issue to aware of is that the turbo oil return line to the crankcase is considered a gravity drain, and has worked for many guys. It did not work for me. Oil was not flowing properly back to the crankcase. Oil was actually bleeding through the turbo exhaust-side seals and burning out the muffler. It's recommended to install a pump to ensure that the oil flows out properly.

Lots of guys have done this conversion and usually end up upgrading it further, for the obvious reasons. Challenges you'll face with the bare bones upgrade in order of significance:

1. Detonation. Many guys have done the conversion without any knock issues, but depending on ambient temperature and whether you intend to track the car, it's wise to either come up with a cooling solution or minimally monitor your cylinder head temperature.

2. The stock Air Flow Meter (AFM). The AFM was not intended for boost. Its delicate internals can only hold up so long before they break. Some guys have gotten 1,000 miles out of them - others 10,000. Just be aware that this becomes a maintenance item. It also restricts air flow, increasing turbo lag.

3. Throttle body elbow. The flimsy rubber elbow connecting the AFM to the throttle body was not intended for boost. The boost on my turbo conversion blew the elbow off the neck of the AFM... pressure drops immediately and the engine cuts out. I tried various clamps to no avail. I ended up having a local shop weld a lip onto the end of the AFM neck to have something to clamp onto. Others have replaced the factory elbow with an aftermarket silicone elbow but fitment is tricky. The ultimate solution is to replace the AFM altogether with a MAP sensor - either through a piggyback solution or complete replacement of the Bosch Motronic system with aftermarket EFI engine management. Lots more money here.

4. Squat. The extra HP stresses the suspension - particularly in the rear - causing the back-end to squat. This is VERY fun at first, but then you'll realize how much it negatively affects handling. The simple solution is to replace your rear torsion bar with 26 o 27 mm turbo torsion bar.

I'd recommend going ahead and doing the bare bones conversion first to see how you like it. Most of the stuff you buy would not be "throw away" items if you decide to upgrade later. You can always resell the J pipe, turbo, etc. It's a great way to step into the Porsche Turbo world at a low cost.
Andy - 1987 911 Carrera Coupe

Last edited by polizei; 06-17-2011 at 05:50 AM..
Old 06-17-2011, 05:47 AM
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