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cole930 cole930 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Auburn,In. U.S.A.
Posts: 2,449

Don't be afraid to remove the distributor as they are quite easy to reinstall. If you were seeing rotor contact scuffing on the inside of the cap something is defiantly wrong. What you have described would indicate the rotor wasn't seated correctly,
the distributor wasn't completely seated, or excessive shaft end play exists.

Now we need to make Jesper's special tool 101:

( Go out and buy 2-3 feet of 5/8 inch outside diameter rubber hose. Now wrap several layers of tape( 5-6) around the hose 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch up from one end of the hose This will allow you to put the hose into the spark plug hole and the layers of tape will create a seal against the cylinder head)

Pull the #1 plug and push you special tool 101 into the spark plug hole until the tape seats against the plug hole. Now while holding your thumb over the free end of the hose rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Continue to rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to familiarize with what's hapening. You will feel the compression in the cylinder pushing against your thumb once every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft. That compression you are feeling is the top of the compression stroke which is the point where the spark plug fires the cylinder. That is Top Dead Center of the No. 1 cylinder.

Now that you have done this and are starting to understand how all this fits
together you can pull the distributor.

1. Remove the distributor cap and move it out of your way.

2. Insert your hose into the spark plug hole on #1. Now rotate the crank
cloclwise several times to get familuar with what it feels like when the
compression pushes against your thumb.

3. Now, if your confortable with what your doing here we will proceed. Rotate
the crankshaft slowley clockwise untill you just start to feel compression
against your thumb and then stop. Now look at the crankshaft pulley and
find the Z1 mark on the pllley and slowlty rotate the crankshaft clockwise
untill the Z1 mark is directly alligned with the engine case split just above the
pulley. STOP !!!!

4. Now look at the distributor and note where the tip of the rotor is pointing.
With a black marker put a mark on the outside lip of the distributor rim,
where the distributor cap sits, put the mark on that rim directly in front of
where the rotor tip is pointing. Now put another mark on the distributor
base directly below the mark you made on the lip but put the second mark
on the distributor base where it goes into the engine case and extend that
mark off the distributor base and on to the engine case. Ok, we have now
made a complete reference of where the rotor, distributot base, and
engine case were located with the #1 piston at top dead center on the
compression stroke.

5. Having done this we can now remove the distributor knowing that by
using our hose to find the compression point for #1 and then lining up Z1
with the case split again we can install the distributor, using our reference
marks, and get it right back where it came from.

You need to get that distributor out of there so we can evaluate it;s condition and make sure it's functioning properly.

If you have any questions or need help don't hesitate to call me.


Cole - 80 930 "The Old Sled"
Mods: TurboKraft Custom IC, 934 Headers, GSX 61, Zork, Port Work, SC Cams, Air Mod Fuel Dist Relocated, Water Meth Injection, BL WUR, MSD 6530, Greddy EBC, Synapse Bov, Short 2nd & 3rd with 8:37 R&P, Wevo Shifter, Coupling, and Mounts, MTX-L SSI-4, Big Brakes, Rebel Coilovers, Bilstein Sports.
Old 06-20-2011, 06:09 AM
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