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Alan L Alan L is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 3,249
My dizzy was frozen, and the car lacked power below boost - ie was not advancing. Dont know that it was running red tho.
If the rotor is stiff to move - not good.
I did mine on the bench. Not hard to disassemble and lubricate/free up. mine had a lot of rust type stuff reezing the rotate mechanism to the shaft. It is all very logical to pull apart.
Set to #1TDC on compression. pull the cap and note the rotor should be pointing at #1 plug lead terminal (follow the lead to #1). Use a marker pen and scribe a mark on the dizzy base and crankcase base - you join these up when put dizzy back in - and MAKE SURE ROTOR IS POINTING AT #1 TERMINAL AGAIN.
If you have an issue, post a pic. I used a bit of very fine wet/dry paper (1200) to remove the crap and used some never seize copper compound after, on the shaft.
You can crudely check your cam timing by finding TDC compresion for #1 same as you would do for valve adjust.Then rotate another 360 - ie back to same mark, The #1 inlet valve should have JUST started to depress (0.7mm) - you can actually set a dial gauge up in the engine bay if you really want to get serious, but eyeball is probably good enough here. If it has let loose it will be by more than 0.7mm. Then when you are on this TDC mark you are on TDC compression for #4 inlet. Rotate 360 and check again on #4. I cant really see how they can come out of adjust without loosing complete function.
83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 06-23-2011, 01:33 AM
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