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JFairman JFairman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,289
Nice job, I did all that a few months ago but with Elephant Racing ploybronze control arm bushings. Also replaced the ball joints and tie rod ends. I kept the stock 19mm torsion bars and didn't powdercoat anything. I cleaned everything in mineral spirits and wire brushed any rust and spray painted the control arms and all parts satin black enamel to keep my cost down. Removed and cleaned the cross member with purple scotchbrite pads and mineral pirits to remove old cosmoline and dirt and left it bare aluminum.

Good to know you can get a $15 socket for the ball joint nut at Advance auto parts.
I borrowed a sir tools cogged socket from a friend and tightened the new nuts on with a torque wrech to 184 ft lbs while everything was installed on the car.
I used a floor jack with a piece of carpet on the pad to hold the torque wrench and socket up on the ball joint nut while sitting on the ground with one leg up over the wrench handle and that legs foot on the inner fender well to push against so didn't pull the car off the jack stands or slide toward the ball joint while pulling on the wrench hard to torque the nut.

Smear some moly grease on the bottom of the ball joint and it's threads so the nut torques on good and the ball joint and nut doesn't corrode as fast where it attaches to the control arm.
Also grease the spindle on the ball joint and the wedge bolt that holds it in the bottom of the strut and all the bolts holding the front suspension to the bottom of the car so they all go in smoothly and dont corrode together.

I used the smaller of the two Prothane universal 22mm sway bar mounts with urethane bushings which fit perfectly and reused the still good rubber bushings in the control arms. Swimming pool pump oring seal clear silicone grease is thick and sticky and works good on the sway bar bushings.

Most frustrating part of the whole job for me was getting that 22mm sway bar back into the rubber control arm bushings.
Smear silicone grease on the sway bar and slide it around 4-5 inches through the control arm bushing on one end and then wrestle with the other end to get it lined up and started in the other side rubber control arm bushing.
Once started in slide both sides to right right position so the 2 pivot mounts line up.

I used monofiliment fishing line between squared off jackstands and a tape measure against my 18" rims at 3 and 9 o clock to set the front toe in to about 1/32" afterwards.
Front end is smoother and alot quieter over bumps now and tighter with all the new parts. I still have to play around with corner balance on level ground to get it better. I have Weltmiester adjustable rear spring plates and Tarret adjustable rear droplinks to make that much easier.

If you decide to save money and do corner balanceing yourself there are helpful threads on the technical forum and disconnect the rear swaybar drop links and 2 front sway bar bushing mounts first to remove any preload. Only thing is you can't adjust side to side preload on the stock front swaybar so maybe there isn't much point to unbolting it's bushings first.
Same thing is true of the stock rear drop links but the Tarret adjustable length rear drop links with spherical bearings take care of that while eliminating the old rubber bushings in the stock fixed length drop links, and they cost about the same as 2 new stock drop links - $125.

Enjoy your newly restored ride. It sure is satisfying to do it yourself isn't it
Old 07-09-2011, 09:25 AM
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