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Spenny_b Spenny_b is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hell Fire Corner, near Reg Seat of Gvmnt 12
Posts: 1,597
Hi, looking to do a few of the mods you're doing, so interested to read the replies from folk far more knowledgeable than me, but I also use a Zeitronix AFR setup, installed about 2mths ago, but still messing about with it..

Originally Posted by jebbach911 View Post
....and a 1 BAR spring for the stock waste gate.
Think you may receive a few comments about it being preferable to up the boost by using a boost controller rather than swapping for a 1bar spring.

Where can I get a spec sheet/air output graph on this GT35R turbo?
I'd start here, and if not downloadable, ping them an email...
Welcome to

Do I need to run a support bracket from the turbo to the engine like the K27/7200 turbo had, or will the header system support the weight of the turbo without it?
Personally I'd run a bracket - don't like the idea of that mass bouncing up and down on a manifold. IIRC, the grade of stainless used by Fabspeed isn't perhaps as resistant to fracturing as Rarly's (can't remember the grade of material off the top of my head)

The person I bought the GT35R turbo from tells me I need to put a .040" orifice in the oil feed line to the turbo or the stock system will over feed the turbo and make lots of smoke out the exhaust. Sounds awful small to me, I don't want to starve the oil supply but don't want smoke/blown seals either.
I saw something like this mentioned in the FAQ section on Garrett's site a few days ago...have a read.

Where is the best location for the oxygen sensor bung for the AFR device? My options are 4 inches from turbo before the muffler or 20 inches from turbo after the muffler. Does the OX sensor need to be in the direct exhaust stream or would it be better to have a longer bung so the sensor is not in direct stream?
I sussed out where to install my sensors (Lamda and EGT) after reading the Zeitronix info on their site; I run a Haywood & Scott system, significantly different pipework from the Fabspeed, which limited me greatly...I'll have to refresh my memory where we welded in the bosses tomorrow, but it may not help you that much - have a read on

Where is the best location for my boost sensor (1/8 NPT male) that goes to my AFR gage? I was going to put a "T" in the IC where my stock boost gage mounts. Is that the best location to read true boost?
There's an 8mm hose leading out from the LHS of the IC; I "t"'d into this, however, I don't think I'm getting a correct reading...the RR session I had last week showed completely stock boost, yet mine (with the better sender that Zeitronix sell) is reading far higher, so I clearly haven't got it right (the RR dyne guys used a vacuum hose also to the LHS of the IC, but I need to have a look and see which one they plumber into).

What is the typical entry point for the AFR gage sensor wires, firewall in front of motor or firewall in front by brake cylinder?
I ran all the wires down to the back of the "transmission" tunnel; If you climb into the car, remove the plastic storage cubby (or cassette holder) right behind the handbrake, you'll see an oval shaped access point under the carpet (about 2" x 3") - its sound deadening that when removed exposes a hole. I ran the wires up here, then down the centre console trim, but you'll need to extend the K-type thermocouple wires from the EGT sensor (don't solder them, they need extending using correct connectors otherwise your reading will be off, as it creates a local sensor junction)

Old 08-16-2011, 02:30 PM
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