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sundevil64 sundevil64 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Cedar Park,TX
Posts: 2,617
Garage
Thank you guys for the ideas, I'm grateful to get some input on possibilities.

When I could not get the car to initially start after bursting the fuel line I decided to check all the fuel lines and replaced one. The other have recently been replaced with factory lines. I had also heard about how the FH can get gummed up the the piston will stick or cause other problems. So, I took the FH off and removed the piston (carefully) and inspected it. It was actually pretty clean there was an ever so slight indication of gumming. I soaked it and it came right off. I also soaked the FH. I removed the fuel lines to the injectors of course and did find two filters in one port, indicating either someone at Bosch messed up or someone had been in there. The screens were otherwise clean. I put one screen/filter back in each fuel port, put the pin back in (carefully) everything seem to just move smoothly. There were no indications of rust at all no even on the fuel head exterior. I reinstalled the FH with new copper washers. It then started after it was all together.

The problems have recently arrived as I drove it around more. It was stalling out. When it would stall at idle the afr would climb into the high teen range, it would stumble slightly and stall.

I did install a shim that is exactly identical to the shim (originally there was one, i think). Any way not there are two and the pressure is around 95.

When I read the factory manual (page 20-4) it says pressure immediately after the rear fuel pump should be 2-4bar(28.5-57ishpsi). If under 2 bar replace front fuel pump, if over 4 bar replace the rear fuel pump.

Is there something that increases the pressure after the fuel pump?

Also, that's the system pressure with the valve closed on the gauges. When I "open" the valve for fuel to go to the wur shouldn't pressure drop to around 2.3-2.5 bar given the warm ambient temperatures here in TX?
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:47 AM
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