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mark houghton mark houghton is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Central Washington State
Posts: 3,775
Jim, if all you're really concerned about are those pesky leaks and have no other symptoms to indicate a rebuild of any level is in order, then save the funds for a later time when you can go all-out on the rebuild. I would pull the motor out as a worthy experience, at which point you'll have a much better view of where the leaks may be coming from. From there, purchase the various seals and gaskets and o-rings as needed. And while she's out, certainly take the opportunity to adjust the valves. And since you intend to pull the tranny and have it rebuilt (ka'ching!) then you should inspect and/or service the clutch, flywheel, and TOB and replace the crank seal as cheap insurance "while you're in there".

But first - and this can be kinda messy - jack the car up to where you can crawl underneath the engine with a can or two of engine degreaser and hose the piss outa the engine bottom to top, then rinse off. The trick is to get as much of the oil goo off of everything. Let her dry, then go for a spin...park her...and look closely for where the "new" leaks are coming from. That'll point you in the general direction where to look when the motor is out.

Just my thoughts..let your pocket book tell you how far to go. Mine has been drip free for the last 4 years, until just this summer I'm getting a couple drops on the driveway. The location tells me most likely valve cover gasket on the left side, but still...not too happy about it.
Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification.

Last edited by mark houghton; 11-17-2011 at 03:19 PM..
Old 11-17-2011, 02:14 PM
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