Thread: Rotor for MSD
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roland_shaak roland_shaak is offline
Dr. Rollo
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Whidbey Island
Posts: 36
Wink MSD and rotor

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark houghton View Post
That's probably good advice but I'm not sure it's all that necessary for just a standard application. I've been running with an MSD6AL for the better part of almost 6 years with a non-resistor rotor, gapping my plugs at .040, and running with 12 degrees static timing advance. The rotor still looks fine, as does the cap.

You ought to shoot a couple picts of what you're describing. Might be a worthwhile adaptation. Thanks.
yeah me too...but in talks with the MSD folks (i think) in the past (around 1990 or so) they indicated and - on their EARLY (complete installation booklets) not the one you get in the MSD package when you buy but a separate doc- still unpacking if i find it (may have tossed it i had so many MSD docs i could had a library of rollo- anyway- they i think are the ones that suggested it (i had small dist. cap diameters then like a 356, 912, 914-4 early 911's have 050, 009, MG, and Mercedes, Mallory -

I could see the carbon tracks they said to look for. So i looked at them (couple of cars) and found carbon tracks inside (having been a high power LASER tuner in my wicked past - i ALWAYS prevent hand oils or dirt intrusion by using latex gloves or if i blow it- at least 90% pure and having had more than few do the same thing (the lamp exciters) i realized the issue(same precautions for halogen light replacement BTW-).

so from then on i shaped my rotor tips to look like a tee-pee out to the tip- wide at the base narrow (But not TOOOO narrow) at the tip with the cuts or, filings equidistant from each side of the rotor index (zero) "gouge" in Bosch rotor (a lot of them but not all have the gouge) problems solved. no problem with arching (you VW air cooled guys- it works for you too) if your are still using distributors- wasted spark from a nice MoTec/AEM/(RANT COMING Electromotive IF you want to walk) the TEC-II i bought new back in the day became an anchor after it decided that the coolant temps were -54 or so negative degrees below zero a ton (like -54+ john at AEM said he had seen similar before when and opamp hit the rails of course E.M. potted their stuff back then so you aren't going to fix it) when it went stupid it loaded my cylinders like a hose was turned on...sent it in "no problems found" twice -

i am an experienced wiring dude..EE, Air Force - NASA trained soldering cat and solder ALL my connections i make sure ALL my stuff is electrically bonded and grounded correctly or BETTER than stock bonded (after two 924 turbo debacles) IE having a nice 23 year old Jewish girl push starting a one week old new 924t back in 1980 in front of a very nice and well known San Fernando valley (theeee valley) deli with WINDOWS (more whining and stuff ensued), delco coolant sensor fine- did it again- it is now living off of Fort Casey Washington in the Admiralty strait swimming with the fishes- or crabs- a little rant)

I bought a MoTec and all was fine - same sensors and most of the wiring was the same (raychem) same same same not disconnected from the sensors just re-terminated for the motec connector- and they said it was me...oh well...MoTec or whoever your fave is.....driving some wasted spark coils - GOLDEN (or if you want to really amp it up you can get a new version that deals with 6 coils..at the plugs etc) that is cool i will NEVER use carbs again (idle jet cleaning in the desert...on roads not dirt- not fun..the wife makes much noise..massive gas filtering still clogged idle jets and then to drive for a day ride from sea level to high altitude do you want to re-jet your carbs at a rest spot (for max perfomance ya know)?

heck no...and passing SMOG...just go stocimetric most of the time, and lean where it should be..i passed some hideously bad a$$ed motors that way (no smog laws where i live now.... )...anyway it is something to consider. the cool thing is you go stoic then pass (or re-tweak if needed) then move to a nice spot close by and upload your "correct" maps and drive home with a big ole smile (most of the time).

I love webers, but i am taking my last Italian made 45 DCOE and an 44 IDF sending them for rebuilding then they are going into a nice curly quilted maple display case (i'd love to flame the quilt and have it finished like a burst les paul) R.I.P.

- FI from now on for me- same sound, less hassles....valley girls do not like baking in the desert while you clean jets or replace them with the clean set you carry...if it hasn't happened it will...i had multi micron filters - pre pump post pump and at the carbs (each bank)...rants are over..

I just read a DARPA R.F.P. and i am not believing what i read- me brains are in W.T. heck mode????the brain is hurting big time.
they're gonna be listening.........

here is some brain burn stuff (some generic not of Porsche- but CAN relate and great tips to be found).
from an MSD tech off of the link below not Porsche but it relates well to my noise

"There are a couple of methods to adjust the phasing on the distributor. I did not recognize the part number you gave me for your distributor, so I take it that it is not an MSD product. Here are a couple of ways that can be applied.

1. Adjust the rotor tip by filing it to one side or the other. Most rotor tips are wide enough to allow for some adjustment at that point.
2. If you have an MSD Distributor, you can use the MSD Cap-A-Dapt assembly. This part uses an adjustable rotor that can be phased independently from the distributor.
3. If you are using a distributor with vacuum advance, the advance mechanism can be removed and then the advance base can be rotated to correct the phasing. After adjusting the vacuum advance base plate you would then lock it in that position.
4. Send the distributor to the original manufacture for adjustment."

my version of this i believe was not from MSD but from either hot rod VW or one of those (maybe even a berg book) it has worked for all my cars over the years where needed (i have since when using a dist - either Mallory or MSD no problems...

Phasing an MSD rotor
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Support/frm28392_tech_bulletin_rotor_phasing.pdf

Shoptalkforums.com • View topic - Distributor versus Distributorless Ignition Systems

I phase with a computer these days if using a dist. (getting ready to dump the 964 dual dist soon....MoTec M84 or 800, not sure still mulling it over for the beast i am going to build remember (no smog laws here)..but i have found i have had some pretty clean burning cars when - a pro sets them up (in pass the test mode i just moved to the no SMOG spot....i just get them close then let professionals tune the ECU/advance first on a dyno after basic set up then on the road in real-time real loads, hills valleys straights squirts out of curves etc.

I had a blast tuning my electromotive it was really easy- but after doing some shake downs at the old SIR and driving home and loading up on the old esses in Renton so i was walking to a freaking Denny's twice-to "phone home rollo" to mommy (wife)..no more.....(that rant was for the Seattle-Redmond guys)

BTW i am a green dude...but when it comes to my hot rods 0 i want to OWN all the Dino juice they can pump out of the ground...as required...

Seattle east-side guys one of the best spots to road tune is Hyw 9 going to fro Snohomish between Clearview and the bottom of the hill and Elliot road out of Clearview along the Snohomish river to Highbridge road, then through the old prison farm, then to the first right just before the Monroe bridge Ben Howard road) to go up the Skykomish river to sultan- around the basin then to Index for a beer and burger at zeke's...great tuning- then up to Skykomish- more beer (not much) though....and back - if it isn't tuned then SHOOT IT.....Rollo out to bed to think of cyber warfare....it's going to get real ugly..lock your Routers down and computers/files - outta here
Old 06-13-2012, 08:42 PM
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