View Single Post
JFairman JFairman is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,289
If all the emission stuff is still on the car including a catalytic onverter and the ignition timing is still adjusted to stock setting it could also be the little vacuum solenoid in the vacuum retard line that blocks vacuum retard from reaching the the vacuum retard side of the vacuum pot on the distributor if it is unplugged, disabled, or frozen in the closed position and not working.
So many little things like that can do what you're seeing, and alot of current day auto mechanics don't have a clue with these old mechanical injection and ignition cars and will just screw it up trying and then charge you for their time.

I've changed and modified so many things inside and outside of my dual pot 1987 distributor including reducing the amount of total centrifical advance and lightening the centrifical advance weights to delay the advance curve while advancing static timeing to around 15 degrees before top dead center, along with the MSD 8760 BTM to control and finetune full advance to boost retard under boost, and the CIS fuel injection system... mine starts up instantly with a quick vroom and idles at the first hash mark under the 1000 rpm mark on the tach and that looks like 800rpm to me.
(sorry for that long run on editted sentence)

There is no emission testing in Florida... I couldn't do all the things I've done and pass emissions if there was.

I don't have to warm it up or wait at all after a cold or hot start and can drive off immediatly and quickly after starting it in any weather or ambient temperature and it always runs perfect with no misfiring or hesitation.
The exhaust will smell a little rich when it's right after a stone cold start when the AFR is in the high 10's or low 11's but thats the way CIS is, especially with no catalytic converter in the exhaust system. I have a CIS Flowtech 20% over stock modified fuel head and Brian Leask adjustable control pressure regulator on the car with B&B headers, and a very free electronically adjustable flow muffler too.

When the engine is fully warmed up it idles at the same place which looks like 800rpm on the tach. Turn on the AC and it still idles at the same place because I installed a small adjustable throttle body air bypass valve from an old L-jetronic BMW with air conditioning that opens when the AC compressor engages and keeps the idle speed exactly the same.

My car runs absolutely perfect all the time and every time. It is so much fun to drive. I used to work as a mechanic 25 years ago and nowadays I do all my own work on my car and enjoy it because it's a hobby and I love the car.
Old 03-25-2013, 08:21 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)