Thread: my "TO DO" list
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T77911S T77911S is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 11,163
my "TO DO" list

its really hot out so i put it up on stands to take care of some little things:

engine miss:
who knows

brakes fading:
found cheap pads in there. going to flush the system and amke sure all pistons moving.

adjust valves:
but going to go back thru them again. waiting on new feeler gauge. screw came out on old one. thank goodness it did not fall into the motor

have speedo set to actual mileage:
its out and on its way

have WUR modified:

remove oil tank and lines to clean:
on hold.
taking trip to mountains labor day. need to get it back together

bypass speed relay:
i like to keep the wiring as original as possible so it looks good and can always be converted back. this took a few minutes to come up with a good fix.
BTW, what is the black relay next to the speed relay?
i love these plugs. very easy to modify.

fix front speakers:
one is working. stopped to do other work. need more time to figure out this speaker fader inthe console vs the stereo system.

small drain on the battery:
inside the cabin somewhere.

wire in the MSD properly:
got the connector to wire it into the factory harness.
got the MSD wired in. timmy2 hooked me up with a connector that connects to the factory connector that went to the CD unit.
got into some other wiring. the wire to the oil sending unit on the front is about to break. why is it that those always break?
there is some kind of sending unit mounted on the right timing chain cover. not sure what it is for.
re-routed the engine harness to clean things up.

fix passengers inside door handle:
the metal bar keeps popping off. after looking at it, i think the panel has been off and the rod mmay be on backwords.
sure enough. the rod has a long end and a short end. they put the long end to the door handle so it scrapes the door panel and it pops out of the handle.

paint intake system:
also powder coated fan, housing valve covers and the front tin.
added this after removing it.
this came out pretty easy. going to plug it. not sure how yet. maybe epoxy a plug in. not sure if i want to tap it.

clean the inside real good:
another after thought. after removing the door panel i started cleaning the door jams. they were already very clean anyway so it did not take much to touch them up. may remove passengers seat to clean around it
cleaned rear. oiled with neets feet oil.

steering colum:
found the plastic part of the bearing is coming apart. new part on order. says all you do is drive the new part in and it pushes the old out.....i hope
this was very easy to do. just hammer the new part in.

big dent in passengers floor pan:
this is a big thing with me. i like a nice straight floor pan.
couple wacks with a large hammer and you cant tell it was ever dented.

replace oil seal on tranny side cover:
part on order.
on hold

replace seal around engine bay:
need to treat for a little rust on the part above the turbo. not rusted out yet.
also sealed holes in engine tin and added a piece to the tine around the turbo. not pretty but should work.
also applied "alu zinc' to under side of tin and back side of tin on bumper.
thinking about adding more heat shielding above turbo.

wiper arm switch:
someone put in a switch that cuts off the switch, but only for low. i have not decided if i am going to leave it in or pull it out.
i removed the 'racing switch" and soldered the wire back together to look original.

front condensor fan burned up:
replaced that. it works now.

small 1 inch crack in weld on exhaust pipe that goes to the WG
bought a northern tool welder. got some stainless welding rods and fixed. not pretty but fixed

wire in a vacuum solenoid for retard pot
this was quite simple but took time to figure out and do.
i wired the switch on the side of the throttle body so it operates the solenoid.
whats neat about this is that you could use it to delay the retard of timing when going on boost. the bad is that it would be hard to set. right now i am using the contacts that will cut out the retard pot at part throttle.
its also totally reversible.

replace engine sound pad
i had not orginally planed on this. the rats got in there and made a home out of the old one.
i decided to go ahead and replace it since i am still waiting on my WUR form brain. you need to get that back to me, i keep speeding more money on the car since it is sitting!

almost doen with this. very easy the way i am doing it and virtually no invasion to the wiring...that cant easily be undone. this also makes it look oroginal.
i will do a post about it.

i pulled the wire that connects the power to pin30 of the 2 realys and ran it to my unused fuse for the fog lights. then ran a wire from the main power to the fuse panel to the top of that fuse. this uses orignal fuses and orignal wiring except the jumper to the fog light fuse. anyway, it splits the load to 2 fuses. best thing is you can not tell anything was done.
when i am done, this car will be as perfect as it can be. no its a 25+ yr old car excuses.
86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:

Last edited by T77911S; 10-18-2013 at 11:44 AM..
Old 07-18-2013, 11:52 AM
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