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JFairman JFairman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,128
Hard to say about the camber without seeing them while they're on the car. It probably is from too much negative camber or it could be from the rear wheels being toe'd out.

The center of the tread looks more worn than the sides and that usually means the tires have been over inflated for a while which sort of balloons the tire out a little. Then the center of the tread has more weight on it than the sides, the rubber there gets hotter and wears down fastest.

Last set of rear tires I had were 315/30x18 Falcon Azensis RT 615 and I adjusted the rear camber as far negative as I could - 2.5 degrees negative camber on each side. I couldn't even get that much negative camber with the stock eccentric camber adjustment bolts in the spring plates. I used a small floor jack and pushed up on the leading edge of the trailing arm flange to rotate it against the spring plate mating surface in the same direction as the camber adjustment bolts to get more negative camber. Then I tightened the 3 bolts.
It's hit and miss while doing that because you don't know how much negative camber you have or where the toe is until it's all back together on the ground and you've driven it to settle everything out.
It's a lot of work... and I do it myself at home with mono filiment fishing line squared off around the car at wheel center cap hight.

The result was 2.5 degrees negative camber and that did make the back of the car stick better in corners but the inside edge of the tread wore out in about 5000 miles street driving while the outer edge had little wear. The centers were not worn more than the rest like yours look and I didn't let it go to the point where the cord and belting was showing at the top edge of the sidewalls like yours are.

Tires are too expensive for me to do that again so when I installed ER polybronze bushings in the springplates and sealed monoball bushings in the trailing arms a year and a half ago I set the rear wheels to about .5 degrees negative camber and toe'd in just a tiny bit. Thats working well.
Now the Pirelli P zero tires I have on the back should last a lot longer than the last ones did. I don't track the car so there's no reason to run a lot of negative camber in back.

I rebuilt the front suspension with new ball joints and tie rods ends, ER polybronze bushings, and sealed monoballs about 2.5 years ago.
Steering is more responsive now and the ride is smoother over bumps in the road since getting rid of all the bonded partially collapsed 25 year old rubber bushings that allow changes in wheel alignment while cornering and kind of act like rubber torsion bars that create unpleasent sticktion in the up and down suspension movements.
Old 08-02-2013, 01:47 PM
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