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JFairman JFairman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,234
answers to above posts

I have aftermarket aluminum CIS injector blocks with 40mm holes in them for increased engine performance from around 3500rpm on up while using 964 cams, modified higher flowing CIS Flowtech aluminum fuel head, WMI injection, K27 7006 turbo, B&B headers, and gutted B&B muffler with single left side outlet and tailpipe and 3" electric butterfly to open a second 3" outlet and turned down tail pipe behind the valance on the right side.
I've ported the fully rebuilt cylinder head intake ports that are on the motor now to 40mm to match up with them a year ago and then the 6 holes in the pancake manifold to 40mm about a month ago.
I spent alot of time doing all that with a die grinder, carbide burs, and approx 80 grit sanding cones on arbors made for porting to make the holes smooth and blended nice.

The injector blocks were made to be installed without heat insulators so they are around 9 to 10mm too tall if you put heat insulators and two more gaskets between them and the cylinder heads. They are currently at Turbokraft in California and they are going to machine somewhere around 9mm off the bottoms of them so I can install the insulator blocks I have under the injector blocks without raising the intake manifold up higher than it should be.

After sanding the shroud smooth I puff can painted it with VHT SP155 Chrysler Red high temperature engine enamel. Says it's good up to 550*
I thought it was Ford red before, but I just went and got the can and it's Chrysler red.
Anyway, I sprayed on a light tack coat, let that dry for 5 minutes and then two wet coats over that about 10 minutes apart and let it dry for 2 weeks out in the sun during the day before installing it. That kind of paint takes a good week or two to fully cure and harden.

I like to use a real thin coat of hylomar non hardening gasket sealer on intake gaskets. Just gives me more confidence they won't leak under vacuum or boost. A very thin layer of sealant so it doesn't squeeze out when the manifold is torqued down. You can always remove and reuse the gaskets by putting on another thin layer of hylomar that way.
You can install intake gaskets dry and they should work fine. If I don't use hylomar on them I would use general purpose wheel bearing grease on them so they don't stick and tear apart if it's ever taken a part in the future.

Last edited by JFairman; 04-21-2014 at 07:19 AM.. Reason: spelling...
Old 04-21-2014, 07:15 AM
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