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JFairman JFairman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,289
Yes, you have to remove the distributor. Two little screws hold the vacuum pot on to the side of the distributor body and the arm goes inside and fits over a steel tab on a pivoting advance/retard plate inside of it.
I can't remember if there was an E clip or tiny snap ring on it or not. I think it just fit over the tab.
The distributor is not hard to take apart. A 10 mm nut under the oil felt in the top middle part, some snap rings on the rotating center shaft and 3 philips head screws down in the bottom gets most of the guts out. The centrifical advance weights are down on the bottom part.
The springs are tricky and there's an oval steel cover plate that presses into the side you pry out to fiddle with the springs to very carefully unhook them or hook them back on when putting it back together. You can also adjust the total amount of centrifical advance from there when you learn how. It's too hard to describe in text how to do that but you just bend two tabs inward or outward that the centrifical advance weights swing out to and stop against at around 3000 crankshaft rpms or 1500 distributor rpms

I can't remember all the little steps but it helps to clamp the drive gear and shaft in a bench vise in between two blocks of soft wood to hold it while working on it. Theres a little tiny pin that fits in a slot in the center shaft you have to be real careful not to loose.
You just go slow and careful and it's not too bad. Putting it back together you have to get the stator plate perfectly centered with the reluctor star shaped magnetic things just right with 3 feeler gauges 120 degrees apart while tightening down the 3 philips head screws in the bottom.
I have a hard time remembering the correct names of the parts like stator and reluctor.
Old 06-03-2014, 06:35 PM
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