View Single Post
zakthor zakthor is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: beaux arts, wa
Posts: 481
Garage
Took off intercooler and airbox. to get access Both were filthy inside, I cleaned them out with mineral spirits. Spent the rest of the morning cleaning off the engine around the upper valve covers.

Ran oil out the spray pipe positioning bolts. Just clean oil on passenger side. Driver's side I got a few small pieces of particulate but nothing big enough to clog a spray hole. I had two sizes of tubing, some was 9.8mm o.d, other was 11mm. The 9.8 was a little too small, 11 was too large, tried to shave the 11 down but not enough. I wrapped 9.8mm with two turns of electrical tape and it was snug and didn't leak. One difference from descriptions, 10 seconds of cranking (after removing fuel pump relays) got me maybe 1/2 pint of oil. I did this several times on both sides, was expecting a lot more oil than that. Is something wrong there? Descriptions I read I was expecting a few quarts. I did notice that hose was stuck in too hard at first, got more oil after pulling it out a bit.

Undid valve covers and there's plenty of oil inside, and no sparkly sand. Opportunity to clean the valve covers, the outsides were grimy.

Pressed pins into spray holes. I used bunch of pins with different bends, held the pins with locking forceps. The underside spray holes were very difficult to reach, especially on the drivers side. For underside the pin needed a larger bend to match the diameter of the spray tube, then a little bend in the tip to reach into the spray hole, there is very little room under the spray pipe. All the holes felt clean. I ran oil out of spray pipe before and after using the needles on the spray holes and no particulate after so I don't think anything was clogging or broken free.

My left arm has a bunch of scratches because of the lack of space on driver's side. A little claustrophobic trying to work with your arm stuck in a painful position.

Used silicon edition for valve cover seals. Calibrated my arm with torque wrench before tightening the shiny new nylocks. The torque is just a little more than what's needed to screw on a new nylock. Pretty much stop when you perceive additional resistance. With this light pressure there are no leaks. Took a while to clean off the surfaces and left them dry.

Drove car for 30 minutes, then home and drained oil tank, ran the oil through a painters filter and oil has no debris.

So... I'm not seeing anything wrong. Glad to take the time to know my motor better. I'll check the filter next weekend but suspect it'll just be clean. I'm now sort of half wondering if some crispys from my heat exchangers might have fallen into my oil pan... I rememeber feeling granules inside the tank but maybe I was just tired?

Re-installing the air filter was the worst, I kept tightening stuff and finding I needed it loose for a hose or something. And that hose from oil tank! Hold airbox upside down thread it, then turn airbox over, attach the hoses on the backside, etc, etc. Took a lot of time to figure out the sequence. Tip: leave everything loose until everything else is installed and positioned (including ac pump AND belt).

Last edited by zakthor; 10-26-2014 at 09:30 PM.. Reason: For clarity change "oil tank" to "my oil pan"
Old 10-26-2014, 09:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #32 (permalink)