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Tonger Tonger is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by slyguy View Post
Friend,
If you're coming off like an ass there are surely many explanations but you still sound like an ass. I'm going to guess you personally do not turn wrenches for yourself with any level of competence and through limited deduction assume therefore it is not possible for others to do so. Reading comprehension also a little lacking here, if you re-examine the original post (a copy sent to a suspension specialist) you see that I am well aware the setup is incomplete and what I am looking for is real information regarding parts compatibility. I am not looking for an opinion on whether or not I should do it myself or where you think my money is best spent, you want to pay someone to work on your car great glad it's running well. I suspect you are not at all qualified to participate in this dialog as only an idiot would suggest have a car aligned and corner balanced before a new sorted suspension was assembled which is exactly why I have initiated this thread. Unfortunately I cannot control who says what and where on an open forum, you can however, please have the courtesy to delete your comments and unsubscribe my thread.
Regards
Sly,

This is a little harsh to 531 don't you think? The dude tried to make nice and you continue to rage on him - not a smooth way of making friends or receiving advice. Like 531, I also like the look of your car but wonder if it's too low with either neutral or negative rake. I can't imagine that there is that much travel left in the suspension at that level although it looks damn cool. It might be just the picture but is the front fender lip rubbing the tire because the white paint looks a little irregular?

I just did most if not all of what you are talking to Clint about: Raised front spindles, RSR front bushings, coilovers front and rear, revalved front struts, new matched threaded rear Bilstein shocks, RSR bump steer kit, and 935 type rear spring plates. My car is set around Euro height (higher than yours) and spent about 4.5 hours on the alignment rack. The thing that we ran into was too much negative camber in the rear (-1.9 degrees) that got worse when the car was lowered more. To paraphrase Clint's explanation, the coilovers exacerbate the excess negative camber and you can work around it to some degree by replacing the camber eccentric bolt with a smaller 8mm bolt that allows the spring plates more excursion.

In the end, I'm happy with the result and my car works for all the speedbumps and crappy roads because I'll need the travel and the clearance. If you really like your car that low, you might wind up with -3 degrees of camber when you're done. Race car alignment on the street which means possible tramlining and short inside tire wear. We were aiming for -1 degree but I think -1.9 degrees will be fine.

Best of luck to you,

Tonger
Old 10-30-2014, 04:49 PM
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