View Single Post
TurboKraft TurboKraft is offline
Registered User
TurboKraft's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,540

I don't think your flywheel is the issue. I see the circular blanchard grinding out towards the edge, so the friction-to-mounting surface relationship is unchanged. Plus, the groove surrounding the friction surface is still visible, a quick visual that it hasn't be machined too far. And you have the correct new pilot bearing, greased from the manufacturer.

We know the manufacturer of the billet stainless release bearing and the aluminum pressure plate extension pieces, and have very high confidence that there's nothing off kilter in their production. Once the first item is made and checked, CNC-machined parts don't typically have any variance.

The release bearing can't be incorrect if the extension can be installed into it.

If you want to verify the pressure plate's part number, look at the engraved number on the aluminum cover. In your photo, it would be on the far right (but cropped out in the pic).

If you have a photo of the disc, you can double-check the part number painted onto its hub.

The transmission's release fork doesn't look exceptionally worn in your posted photos.

You haven't run out of cable housing adjustment, so I'm thinking you have the cable adjusted properly at the pedal end.

Is it conceivable the pressure plate, disc, release bearing, or extension components were manufactured incorrectly -- like Jacob pointed out, even Porsche makes mistakes -- but I doubt it. The fact you had a problem before, and still have a problem, leads me to believe something else is going on. C'mon, what's the odds you had defective clutch parts previously, too, also leading to clutch engagement problems? Probably nil.

I told you on the phone but will repeat it for the sake of others here:
- When we have a car idling in neutral on a hoist, and the clutch is slowly released, the rear wheels will slowly start spinning and get up to a pretty good clip. That's just drag within the gearbox, oil and such, and you can easily stop the wheels by hand.
- If you put it in gear, clutch in, and start the engine, the wheels shouldn't start spinning as the engine is cranking. Again, you should easily be able to stop them by hand. If you set the hand brake, the engine shouldn't get bogged down. If it does, the clutch clearly isn't releasing fully.


A) Can you use a prybar underneath the car and actuate the release arm, cause it to disengage fully? If yes, how much further do you have to move the small release lever in order to make it disengage? 2mm? 10mm?

B) Is it possible you have the small clutch release lever off by one spline, set too far forward? Comparing your photo against others I've taken of 930 4-speeds, yours appears correct but it's worth looking again.
Can you back off the stop bolt, keep the pivot shaft in position (contact against release bearing) and move the small arm one tooth toward the back, then re-adjust the small bolt?
I am not at the shop to verify this for you, but IIRC, if you have the small splined release arm can sit in one of two places.
- it can't be set too far back because of the natural position of the large lever arm with the omega spring installed
- it can't bee too far forward because the small stop bolt won't reach it even when maxxed out.
Chris Carroll
TurboKraft, Inc.
Tel. 480.969.0911
email: -
Old 05-17-2015, 01:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #76 (permalink)